Bothy bagging

As a new book about Scotland’s bothies is published, author Geoff Allan tells Gayle Ritchie about his obsession with the rustic shelters

S cattered throughout Scotland’s wilderness, bothies are remote, basic shelters in which walkers can stay free of charge.

These evocative abandoned crofts, huts and farmsteads can often be a challenge to reach, but offer welcome respite from the elements and are an alternative to camping.

Bothy bagger Geoff Allan reckons these secluded hideaways can be much more than just a place to sleep – at their best, they represent a culture and a community.

Geoff’s new book – Scottish Bothy Walks: Scotland’s 28 best bothy adventures – is a stunning travel guide in which he shares “the best walks to the best bothies”, highlighting the incredible wildlife, geography, history and culture along the route.

It’s a follow-up to his first book, The Scottish Bothy Bible, a guide to more than 100 bothies, published in 2017.

“Being originally from Suffolk. I’d never heard of bothies until I joined Edinburgh University’s mountaineering club,” says Geoff, 50.

“I spent a Hogmanay in a bothy in a beautiful spot in the middle of nowhere near Glen Affric. It made me want to explore and discover more.

“When I was pushed for cash, the idea of finding free accommodation in the wilderness caught my imagination. Bothying soon became an obsession.”

Geoff, a former surveyor who now works as a photographer and outdoor guide, loves the challenge of getting to a bothy, either on foot or by bike.

However, while some take hours to reach and involve navigating treacherous terrain, there are a few examples in his new book which are just a few miles or less from civilisation.

“There’s a bothy for everyone, really,” he muses. “But if the idea of sharing with a load of others doesn’t appeal, don’t head to a popular bothy on a Friday night. I avoid weekends altogether. It’s better to pick a remote location and go mid-week, if you can.”

Ryvoan, sometimes described as the perfect beginner’s bothy, between Nethy Bridge and Glenmore near Aviemore, is stunning but Geoff has never stayed there because he prefers to go to places off the beaten track.

Bothy adventures are a fantastic way of meeting people from all walks of life, not just “outdoorsy types”, he says.

“It opens your eyes to the different people out there, but I’d advise having good social skills,” he warns.

“If you’re open to meeting others, you’ll get the best out of the experience. But of course, there are those who prefer not to engage and instead, go to another room on their own, and that’s fine.”

One of Geoff’s favourite bothies – which is easy to get to – is Charr in Glen Dye. It’s only two miles from the scenic B974 Cairn o’ Mount road between Fettercairn and Banchory but offers true immersion in the wilderness and is a welcome spot for a sit down and shelter.

Michael Portillo featured it in his

When I was pushed for cash, the idea of finding free accommodation in the wilderness caught my imagination

Great British Railway Journeys series on BBC Two.

“It’s remote, although not far from a main road, but you’re likely to have the place to yourself,” says Geoff.

Other favourites include Allt Scheicheachan, a small bothy above Blair Atholl in the Southern Cairngorms, and Bob Scott’s, which sits in a secluded glen by the Lui Burn.

The stone and wooden building is, along with Corrour, probably the most frequented bothy in the Cairngorms.

Geoff’s also a fan of Gelder Shiel Stables, on the northern flanks of Lochnagar.

“I also highly recommend Ruigh