Tayside pub gets it just right

The Gauldry Arms has long had a reputation as one of the great pubs of our area, and a huge part of that reputation was based on its quality food.

In recent years the pub had stopped serving food, but a change of ownership has put that tradition back on the menu.

The pub is nestled at the top end of the quiet village and is perhaps a little off the beaten track, but it’s still very busy and it would not be wise to turn up without a reservation.

It’s fair to say the décor is a little quaint and the dining area quite small.

The new owners Bob and Marie Moncur have plans to expand the dining area but this decor helps create a homely atmosphere.

The menu is short, focused perhaps being a better description, with a tight selection of starters, mains and desserts.

There is a nice range of food options that vary between traditional pub food and the more standard restaurant fare.

The Moncurs intend to keep this menu changing however, so there should always be a fresh reason to visit.

I started with roasted plum tomatoes with Parmesan shavings and balsamic reduction.

This was a harmonious, heavenly combination, with a little green pesto just adding to the fun.

Some starters can be too heavy before a main course but this was deliciously light.

My wife’s starter of smoked salmon with potato dill salad similarly hit the spot – beautifully presented and lightly smoked to perfection.

We were already hooked and the mains we so eagerly awaited did not disappoint.

I opted for the steak which is often the classic measure of a good pub meal.

The Scotch H cut steak in mustard butter, with tomatoes and mushroom with hand cut chips, was a great cut, done well.

The mustard butter lifted it a good level above the already high standard of cooking.

As I tucked in, my wife enjoyed pan fried sea bass with crushed new potatoes, wilted spinach, minted peas and white wine.

It was a supremely well balanced, delicate pan-fried sea bass cooked perfectly with crispy skin and the creamy white wine sauce.

The desserts too hit just the right note.

My carrot cake with vanilla ice cream was garnished with a zesty orange sauce and dots of raspberry sauce, the piquancy an eloquent counter to the flavours of cake and ice cream.

Cinnamon rice pudding with poached peach was just as excellent a dish.

The comforting, warming pudding Reviews are conducted by The Courier’s secret diners. could almost be a signature dish of the venue.

The wine list was rather limited but there were some good options: a glass of fruity, smoky Condorito Merlot only £4.85, while a bottle of Prosecco Riondo Collezione was a delicious citrus and green apple scented treat at a mere £18 and would surely have fetched far more in some other establishments.

The cosy atmosphere and friendly service were exactly what would be expected from a rural pub.

Overall this was excellent value at a standard much higher than one would expect from traditional village pub grub.

It seems that the great tradition of this village pub has been given a new lease of life.

The popularity of this return to form is evidenced by how busy it is.

It may be a little out of the way but that shouldn’t stop you going. It certainly won’t stop us from going back again.

Pictures: Kim Cessford. Clockwise from top left: a sign advertising the regular Sunday folk night; the smoked salmon starter ; the Scotch H cut steak in mustard butter, with tomatoes and mushrooms; the exterior of the Gauldry Arms.