Dreamy Dunkeld is a must-see

Situated in Perthshire’s Big Tree Country, an area made famous in Shakespeare’s Macbeth, is the picturesque Dunkeld. Dave Lord enjoys a relaxing break on the banks of the Tay

If Dunkeld doesn’t enjoy Courier Country’s most picturesque setting then it must certainly be in the top three. And when the sun is splitting the sky, it is surely second to none.

It was one such glorious summer’s day when I — with wife and 23-month-old son in tow — descended upon the town for a spot of midweek R&R.

Our billet for the one-night midweek stay was the Atholl Arms Hotel, situated right on the banks of the Tay just as you enter the small town from Birnam. On arrival we were presented with the key for room 17 — so far, so unassuming.

However, on pushing open the door it was clear our quarters for the night were anything but ordinary.

The suite, with views overlooking the Tay, is quite magnificent.

Featuring a generous dining table, comfortable sofa, dressing area and en suite, it could very easily accommodate more than a few London studio flats.

Suitably impressed we placed our rather modest-by-comparison bags in a corner before heading out to enjoy the sunshine.

First on the agenda was a visit to the hotel’s new terrace café right on the banks of the Tay, adjacent to its car park.

After soaking up some rays, and enjoying a quick drink from the well-stocked bar, it was time for an afternoon stroll around the ancient heart of Dunkeld.

It had been years since we last visited and we had quite forgotten the majestic setting of the old cathedral, which is a must-see for any visitors to the area.

The main part of the building was started in 1260 but not completed for almost two and half centuries, finally being finished in 1501.

It is due to this remarkably long construction period that such a mixture of styles are in evidence.

It may have stood for several centuries, but there is plenty of evidence of wear and tear in the old structure, with part of the building closed for restoration work following several harsh winters.

Nevertheless, part of the cathedral remains open and indeed is in regular use — well worth a look.

During our trip, it was too nice a day to spend time inside so we instead concentrated on the beautiful grounds surrounding the building.

We had quite forgotten the majestic setting of the old cathedral, which is a mustsee to any visitors to the area.

With lawns sweeping down to the Tay and plenty of strategically placed benches upon which to spend a moment of quiet contemplation, it is a fantastic place to while away a summer’s afternoon.

Aside from the cathedral, Dunkeld may be small but it is pretty close to perfectly formed and has a thriving community.

There are plenty of independent shops and galleries to poke around in the town centre — not to mention a number of fine cafés and hostelries.

The town also offers plenty of opportunities for mountain biking, fishing, horse riding and even some more extreme sports such as quad biking, right on the doorstep.

Next on our agenda was dinner at the Atholl Arms’ award-winning Riverview restaurant.

After ordering a gin and tonic from the bar we perused the menus while enveloped by one of the over-stuffed sofas in the homely reception area.

While much of the menu could be described as traditional, the emphasis is on simple, well-prepared and seasonal fare. The service is similarly friendly and uncomplicated.

During our visit, several tables had been pushed together to accommodate what was clearly a group of locals — always a good sign — who could be heard discussing the merits (or otherwise) of everything from the dualling of the A9 to the EU referendum.

One of Dunkeld’s most famous attributes is its live music scene and, during a brief and very short afterdinner stroll (the requirement to stay within range of the baby monitor is a rigorous limitation) the strum of a guitar could be heard from the neighbouring Taybank.

Back at the Atholl Arms, a notice in Room 17’s en suite at the Atholl Arms warns visitors that it is an old hotel and the hot water may take a while to come through the pipes — it is an accurate assessment, but then Dunkeld isn’t the kind of place to rush anything. And while a lengthier stay would have been more than welcome, fortified by a full Scottish breakfast, we departed down the A9 feeling genuinely relaxed and refreshed — job done.

Clockwise from opposite page: the Thomas Telford Bridge over the River Tay in Dunkeld; a room with a view; the new terrace café of the Atholl Arms hotel; the exterior of the hotel in Dunkeld.