The feel of a forgotten forest

Kerrowmore Woods, Glen Lyon, Perth and Kinross

Tucked away in a remote corner of Scotland’s longest enclosed glen, the trails through Kerrowmore Woods have a rustic charm about them. Created some years ago, the path network has slowly yielded to the insistent will of Mother Nature.

Timber bridges, boardwalks and benches are all weather-worn, frayed around the edges in some places, broken in others, while steps that aid ascent are at risk of being swallowed by the ground. But this only adds to the allure of what feels like a forgotten forest.

There are three access points to Kerrowmore Woods, offering various possibilities, and while the longest outing remains relatively short in terms of distance covered, it is by no means easy, the path climbing steeply by waterfalls to a cluster of lochans and then a viewpoint overlooking Glen Lyon.

I opted to start at the lowest of the three parking areas, the one closest to Bridge of Balgie, which, despite its isolated location, has an excellent shop and tearoom. Heading down the single-track road from an information board towards the river, I picked up the trail in a passing place. There are no waymarkers at this point but the path is obvious enough. Running parallel with a wall initially, then a more distant fence, it crosses open ground before rising gently into birch woods.

Stone steps and some rubble infilling offered me safe passage over and around the first decaying boardwalks I encountered, while a bench sitting above a reedy pond with a clear view up the valley proved to be stable enough.

The path dips to a rickety wooden footbridge before curving up the grassy slope – the start of an arduous ascent between two streams. Steps help in the quest to gain height, while small falls of white water are excuse enough to pause periodically. Emerging from the trees, the gradient finally eases as the path cuts through bracken, following the more westerly of the burns to its source, the first of the day’s hidden lochans.

Occupying a flat spot on the otherwise slanted northern flank of Meall nam Maigheach, the lip by the outflow is a pleasant place to rest and cast eyes across Glen Lyon towards Ben Meggernie. Venturing into the glade beyond, I found a place of peace and tranquillity, a solitary and secluded enclave sheltered by conifers where the only sound was that of the birds drifting over still waters.

Crossing a bridge of wood and stone, the path skirts the western side of the first lochan, passing a well-placed but decrepit picnic table, before continuing over boardwalks slung between the next two equally enchanting pools.

Wandering back into the forest, a track led me past another lochan, this one lurking in evergreens to my left, then a smaller pool to a redundant boardwalk marking the start of a path that weaves up to a heathery knoll with a view of higher peaks to the south and east.

Occasional waymarkers dot the path from here down to the road, a slender strip of asphalt that cuts between Ben Lawers and Meall nan Tarmachan, linking Glen Lyon with the valley of the Tay. The mountainous pass above me and traffic light, I trotted down the road, the flow and falls of the Allt Baile a Mhuilinn accompanying me on my descent towards Bridge of Balgie.

ROUTE

1. Descend 150m on road to passing place opposite cattle grid sign. 2. Branch right on path running parallel with wall then fence. 3. Cross stream and continue up through woodland, curving left by old boardwalks, then descend past bench overlooking pools to wooden footbridge. 4. Cross bridge and bear right up slope, ascending steep path with steps between two streams then through bracken to first lochan. 5. Cross outflow by bridge of wireencased stones, head a few metres up slope then go left on path to picnic table. Continue along boardwalks and path to meet track. 6. Turn right (signed Upper Car Park) and walk 700m west on track. 7. Turn right (signed Middle Car Park) and ascend path on to heathery ridge. 8. Detour right to signed viewpoint then return to path, bear right and descend to road. 9. Turn right and descend road to starting point.