The Courier & Advertiser (Fife Edition)
Spoilt for choice in the region of the Fairest Cape
Knowing a thing or two about wine, Robin takes a trip to one of his favourite producing countries – South Africa
As a travel writer I’ve been lucky enough to visit many of the world’s great wine destinations and while I love the likes of France, Australia and New Zealand, for me South Africa stands head and cork shoulders above all the others for wine touring.
I’ve just been back to the Western Cape Winelands for the fifth time – my first visit for eight years – and I’m happy to report I found it to be better than ever, with big changes on the wine front.
Things have also stepped up on the accommodation and food scenes too, so I’ve compiled this article of the best that South Africa has to offer...
When I first toured the Western Cape Winelands in 2004 I wasn’t as impressed. Two grapes dominated proceedings on the single varietal front – Chenin Blanc and Pinotage.
Today the South African wine industry is very much ploughing its own furrow.
Chenin Blanc is still the most prevalent white, but there are also some superb Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. Pinotage has stepped up with greater consistency and has been joined by a host of grapes, even superb Pinot Noir, a grape I thought the Winelands may be too warm for.
I also love that wineries these days aren’t just focused on the wine, but often provide plenty of other things for visitors to see and do.
Even on the fringes of Cape Town I was straight into the action in Constantia, the oldest wine region in the Cape. Here I rode around on two wheels at the Constantia Uitsig Bike Park. This brilliant test of skill is run by a champion rider and it’s spot on.
After the bike park I eased along to the Steenberg’s Bistro Sixteen82, a perfect example of the new wave of winery restaurants. It is set in a spectacular building with great use of natural light and sweeping views out to the hills.
The Cape Winelands are unremittingly dramatic with craggy peaks vaulting up from the green valleys that host the vineyards. I savoured the perfectly cooked local fish of the day, kingklip.
It was then time to travel into the epicentre of South Africa’s wine industry, Stellenbosch. My base was a gorgeous one at the Asara Wine Estate and Hotel (www.asara.co.za) just outside the town.
My room offered panoramic views of the vines and the rugged mountains, a view that was jaw-dropping at sunrise.
The next day it was time to see one of the industry giants, Spier. They offer excellent tours, great food and even boast their own golf course.
I even embarked on one of their fun Segway tours, which was a great way to explore the vineyards.
I’d previously visited many of the excellent wineries around Stellenbosch so decided to push on to Durbanville, where I’d heard they are producing some excellent Sauvignon Blanc.
At Diemersdal I was not disappointed by their interpretations of my favourite white wine varietal.
It worked well with the tapas dishes I savoured, which were laden with produce from the region and the winery’s own farm.
Stellenbosch’s sister wine town is Franschhoek, which boasts wineries of its own, as well as being my favourite foodie destination in South Africa.
My favourite vineyard in the region is Boschendal. It may be a deeply historic winery, but the owners never rest on their laurels. Visitors have a choice of three places to eat (where much of
the estate produce is used) and on-site accommodation. At Boschendal I got more acquainted with the Methode Cap Classique sparkling wines. I am a fan of champagne, but the wines on offer were up there alongside some of the best champagnes.
Unlike prosecco, MCC wines are fermented in the bottle and some are truly stunning.
I headed for dinner in Franschhoek at La Petit Colombe at the Quartier Francais for what proved to be the best meal of my trip, a nine-course tasting menu that spectacularly paired local produce-infused dishes with the Cape wines.
A brilliant way of exploring the Franschhoek is aboard the Wine Tram. This means you can ease around a number of vineyards in style without having to worry about whether you’ve had too much wine to drive home.
You can sample wines and buy a few bottles to take home – South African wines are generally excellent value.
I also took time to explore Franschhoek. It’s a lovely place for strolling around the striking whitewashed Cape Dutch buildings, nosing through the shops and galleries and enjoying the warm climate.
Venturing deeper inland I came into a wine district I hadn’t yet explored, Breedekloof, which was accredited in 2003. Chenin Blanc, South Africa’s signature white varietal, is the star here and I enjoyed a tasting at Bosjes, a lovely restaurant and guest house.
The tasting brought together Chenin Blancs from a dozen different producers and I was impressed by the diversity within this versatile grape.
There is one place in the Western Cape that I always head to on every trip and that is Hermanus, the best venue for me in the world for land-based whalewatching.
Just inland from Hermanus I came across another valley blessed with superb wineries.
At Creation Wines I met a volley of local producers who together are grouped as Hemel-en-Aarde. I was delighted to find Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thriving here in the slightly cooler, ocean breeze-kissed climes.
They also took me on a tour and discussed an educational project where the wineries are ploughing some profits into helping local disadvantaged kids.
I’m finishing writing this article now en route to Cape Town airport.
I’m heading for Pretoria to catch up with my favourite train ride in Africa, Rovos Rail... stay tuned for my report on that.
I dare say I may enjoy a glass or two of South Africa’s glorious wines onboard. They will remind me of those epic vineyards that for me offer the world’s finest wine touring.