Breathtaking Bilbao

A quick stop in one of Spain’s art capitals leads to an awe-inspiring experience as Bridget finds a link that’s closer to home

Despite the fact I’ve visited Bilbao in the Basque Country on four separate occasions, the sight of the Guggenheim Museum still takes my breath away. On my most recent call at the end of last month, there was no sign of political demonstrations which have recently taken place in Catalonia, sparked by the independence referendum.

The Basque Country has devolved power and is an autonomous community in northern Spain. Bilbao is a six or seven-hour drive or train journey from Barcelona.

The sun was shining when my friend Dot and I wandered from the sleepy, early-morning Old Town along the picturesque riverbank to view the futuristic building made from titanium, glass and limestone.

I can hardly believe that 20 years have gone by since the Guggenheim Museum first opened in 1997. Ironically, the residents of this city, once famous for shipbuilding, weren’t keen on the idea of a museum when the plans were first drawn up.

Yet with tourism boosted by the magnetic draw of the museum, visitors now come from near and far for a glimpse of this extraordinary exhibition space with its 18 light-filled galleries.

Designed by acclaimed American architect Frank Gehry, no walls are straight and the curvaceous, titaniumclad structure reflects the light like fish scales. It’s said to resemble a ship marooned on the riverbank, although from certain angles, it’s more like a spaceship has landed.

Dundonians will be familiar with the architecture, considering that the wavyroofed Maggie’s Centre at Ninewells Hospital was also designed by Gehry. He was a friend of Maggie (who sadly died from breast cancer before seeing her vision of a refuge completed) and her husband Charles Jencks, who has overseen the launch of 21 Maggie’s Centres.

I happened to be reporting on the opening of the centre in 2003, which Gehry attended. I therefore feel an extra affinity with his extraordinary buildings, each a work of art in their own right.

Being early morning, we arrived at the Guggenheim just as a dry ice mist descended and crept eerily under the huge spider which guards the riverside entrance. This striking sculpture by Louise Bourgeois is nicknamed “Maman” because of its huge sac of spider’s eggs suspended underneath and also because this work is dedicated to the artist’s own mother and maternity.

Being a bit of an arachnophobe, I much prefer the guard sitting outside the museum’s opposite entrance.

Nicknamed Puppy, this giant floral topiary of a West Highland Terrier by artist Jeff Koons towers over passers-by in all its multi-coloured glory.

Due to be moved after its initial showing, a petition by schoolchildren meant that Bilbao became the dog’s permanent home, which is now regarded as a symbol of the city. By the time we left the Guggenheim, the temperature had lifted to a very pleasant 25C and it was getting towards lunchtime.

The Basque region is renowned for “pintxos”, like tapas on cocktail sticks, often served complimentary when you order a drink.

Visitors now come from near and far for a glimpse of this extraordinary exhibition space with its 18 lightfilled galleries

There was certainly a selection of appetising snacks on display from jamon to seafood in the atmospheric bars in the Old Town.

The Casco Viejo is also nicknamed the Siete Calles after the seven streets that form this quaint quarter.

Boutiques and chain stores like Spanish success story Zara are also tempting, and we managed to find some bargains in the short time we had.

If we’d had longer to explore than the day our Fred Olsen cruise ship allowed (fredolsencruises.com), we may have visited the Fine Arts Museum, the second most important in Spain after the famous Prado in Madrid.

Or taken the funicular railway to the top of Mount Artxanda for panoramic views of the city and mountains.

Bridget McGrouther