See Scotland in winter and warm to its charms

Robin reveals the amazing attractions and must-see destinations Scotland can offer those looking to make a seasonal sojourn

It’s that time of year in Scotland when the mercury dips and we often dream of an escape to sunnier climes. It’s also a great time to explore a much less crowded Scotland, however, so abandon thoughts of hibernating or flying off as I steer you through some winter adventures in Caledonia.

Scotland, for me, looks at its best in winter with the mountains dusted in snow. It’s great for wildlife, too, as the red deer descend from the high hills in search of food and shelter. Mountain hares adopt their white winter plumage, as do ptarmigans.

Kicking off with our cities, winter is a great time for a wee urban break. From November 17 to January 6 Edinburgh’s Christmas (www.edinburghschristmas.com) graces the capital. There are, of course, traditional German-style Christmas markets but also funfair rides and even an ice skating rink in St Andrew Square. It’s a McKelvie family tradition to ice skate then enjoy lobster and chips at the takeaway van in the square.

Over in Glasgow, there are seasonal festivities, too, as part of Glasgow Loves Christmas (www. glasgowloveschristmas.com). Winter is also a great time to explore the city’s free art galleries and museums. My ideal day out in Glasgow involves starting off at the sparkling Riverside Museum, which now houses the Museum of Transport. I love the way they have woven all the old favourites – like the old subway train and the recreation of a Glasgow street – in with new technology, interactive exhibits and the brilliant rotating model ship display.

Then, I recommend turning your back on the lifeblood River Clyde and instead follow the banks of Glasgow’s forgotten river, the Kelvin. It snakes from its confluence with the Clyde from the Riverside Museum up to the spectacular Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. This striking red sandstone dame is deeply impressive, outside and in. I love that they have all the old world museum exhibits, like a Spitfire and taxidermy animals, but also bring things forward with interactive displays that kids love. It is a cultural oasis that constantly surprises.

Pushing on from our cities, one isle I think works very well in winter is Arran. Some of the more remote parts of the Hebrides virtually close down for winter but Scotland’s seventh-largest isle buzzes along all through the colder months. Things are, of course, quieter, but the lack of crowds leaves the island free for you to explore. In winter deer descend right into the village of Lochranza. I recommend tackling a section of the Arran Coastal Way if you want to get a real feel for the island and come face to face with its bountiful wildlife.

Back on the mainland, I think that a self-catering accommodation stacks up very well for a cosy winter break. My family and I love Aikwood Tower (www. aikwoodtower.com) in the Borders. You literally have your own castle to yourself here, with a gloriously large fireplace beside which to enjoy a dram after dinner cooked on their Aga. The newer annexe is handy, too, with table tennis and games for entertaining the kids.

If it’s a hot tub you fancy then look no further than Portavadie (www. portavadie.com) for a seasonal escape. They have a wide range of self-catering options: from a wee grass-roofed cottage for two through to large modern apartments that come complete with their own saunas and epic views out across the 240-berth marina and on to the rugged hills of Arran. Their new spa is a delight with a great range of treatments and its large indoor

swimming pool. I prefer to be outside, right on the shores of Loch Fyne, where they have a heated infinity pool and a brace of hot tubs.

If you want to get away, just the two of you, Roulotte Retreat (roulotteretreat.com) is a romantic option that my wife and I try to escape to for a night or two every winter. This adult-only site in the Borders boasts a sprinkling of French roulottes – luxurious French wooden caravans – that recline around a little pond in a meadow in the shadow of the Eildon Hills. The owners are lovely and often leave a few free-range eggs for guests.

If you want to get active outdoors, I suggest a wee break in the Cairngorms National Park, the UK’s largest. There is, of course, skiing on Cairn Gorm mountain, with a mountain railway, ski lifts and ski lessons on hand.

Up on the Cairn Gorm plateau itself, serious winter walking – we’re talking crampons and ice axes, plus all the proper gear – tempts, alongside ice climbing, for those looking for a real challenge. Back down nearer the mountain resort of Aviemore, the Rothiemurchus Forest is on hand with myriad facilities. You can snake around woodland walking and bike trails or even go husky dog sledding. That’s right, dog sledding in Scotland. If you find that surreal, wait until you see the local herd of reindeer.

I’m going to get ultra-local now with my hometown of South Queensferry. It’s a wee gem that often gets overlooked but it’s really been put on the map with the opening this year of the spectacular Queensferry Crossing. South Queensferry also has, for me, the finest country house in Scotland, Hopetoun House, and a cobbled historic High Street laden with cafes, pubs and restaurants.

The museum in South Queensferry is free and fascinating. You can learn about the first dogfight of the Battle of Britain, fought not above the white cliffs of Kent, but right here in the skies above South Queensferry. The John Muir Way also ripples through the town now so I recommend tackling a section of that or just enjoying a stroll in the bucolic, car-free oasis of the Dalmeny Estate.

Scotland is awash with history. I’m a huge fan of both Historic Scotland and the National Trust for Scotland. Some people presume all of their sites close down for winter but that is not the case. Some of the big hitters, like Stirling and Edinburgh castles, Culloden and Fort George, stay defiantly open even in the darkest of months.

There is so much to see and do in Scotland in winter. This winter you could enjoy anything from a museum-blessed city break through to an escape to a hot tub in the heather or even a wee island adventure. What are you waiting for?