The Courier & Advertiser (Fife Edition)
Moving a-cross panoramic slopes
Hill of Tarvit, Cupar, Fife
Cupar’s historic market cross has long been a focal point for local folk and visitors to the northeast Fife town. However, it has not always stood in its present location, in the heart of the community at the junction where the long-established thoroughfares of Bonnygate and Crossgate converge.
For much of the 19th Century, the unicorn-topped column adorned the summit of nearby Hill of Tarvit. Some sources suggest the Laird of Wemyss Hall, on whose land the hill sat, won it from the Provost of Cupar in a game, while others say he rescued it after it was taken down to allow improvements to be made to the burgh’s streets.
Whatever the truth, the 17th Century monument graced a stone pedestal on the summit for 80 years before being returned to the town in 1897. It was replaced by a cast iron staff commemorating Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.
Wemyss Hall, too, has changed, succeeded by the striking Edwardian Hill of Tarvit Mansion and it was from here that I planned to both climb Hill of Tarvit and enjoy a stroll through the surrounding countryside, visiting the villages of Chance Inn and Craigrothie.
Owned by the National Trust for Scotland, the house, which was commissioned by Dundee jute mill owner Frederick Sharp in 1904, is open from April to the end of October, while the gardens and grounds are open all year round.
The hill ascent can be made before or after completing the main circuit and I opted for the latter, heading first to Scotstarvit Tower, a medieval keep lying to the west of Hill of Tarvit.
Built in the 15th Century, the solid stone structure was remodelled in the 1620s by lawyer and laird of Scotstarvit, Sir John Scot. Like Cupar’s market cross, the land was later acquired by Wemyss Hall Estate and, preserved, the tower house is now in the care of Historic Scotland.
Below it, the track curves through Scotstarvit Farm before following Kate’s Brae between fields and past pockets of woodland down to the small settlement of Chance Inn. A quiet country lane and roadside footpath bordering a busier stretch of tarmac link the hamlet with neighbouring Craigrothie and, along the way, there are views north over farmland to both Scotstarvit Tower and Hill of Tarvit.
At the foot of Craigrothie’s main street, opposite Kingarroch Inn, Old Mill Road dips between cottages to ford Craigrothie Burn, where a quaint old stone footbridge spans the water.
Once over, a farm track rises past the pan-tiled sheds of Wemyss Hall Mains to Wemysshall Road and, a short hop to the east, Hill of Tarvit’s south gates.
The driveway curves up towards the mansion passing, on the left, Kingarroch Golf Course where Sharp and his family indulged their passion for hickory golf. Now the only course of its kind in the country, visitors can still enjoy nine holes played with hickory-shafted clubs.
Back at the car park, the spirited hill trail begins its ascension in woodland and continues up over grazing land to the top of Hill of Tarvit. With the summit offering panoramic views, ground-level boards set around the base of the monument highlight points of interest near and far, including the Lomond Hills and, of course, Cupar with its reinstated market cross. ROUTE
1. Walk 500m south-west along driveway to A916.
2. Cross A916 and continue southwest along track to Scotstarvit Tower.
3. Continue ahead on track below tower, curving left through Scotstarvit Farm. Ascend by row of cottages on left and follow footpath south to Chance Inn. Descend road through village to junction just beyond post box.
4. Turn left and follow minor road down, crossing stream, then up to meet A916.
5. Turn left and follow roadside footpath into Craigrothie. Descend Cupar Road (A916) to Kingarroch Inn.
6. Turn right along Old Mill Road. Fork left at Shillinghill sign and descend track to Craigrothie Burn.
7. Cross burn and ascend track, curving left past Wemyss Hall Mains. Continue up to meet road.
8. Turn right and walk 250m east along road.
9. Go left through south gates and follow driveway towards mansion, bearing left at junction below cottage.