Ancient grains meet modern markets

John Sorrie, Scotland’s sole spelt farmer, left seed merchants baffled when he made inquiries about the ancient grain

Scotland’s only spelt farmer has some sage advice for anyone considering an alternatives crop: “It’s not for the fainthearted.”

John Sorrie discovered that fact when, firstly, he baffled seed merchants who had never heard of the grain and, secondly, he had to design and build a bespoke de-hulling machine in order to diversify into production.

But the challenges paid off for the Aberdeenshire businessman who aims to double production to meet demand this year and has seen his product become an award winner within months of its launch in January 2017.

Mr Sorrie, who has been running the family’s 250-acre arable Westfield Farms, Inverurie, for 17 years, was inspired to grow spelt following the popularity of speciality flours stocked in the family’s retail business, The Green Grocer in Inverurie, and its wide range of health benefits.

“Spelt flour is higher in protein than wheat flour and much lower in gluten. It has a different gluten structure compared to wheat flour and this makes it very popular with those who are gluten intolerant,” he said.

Although the ancient grain was grown in Northern Europe 9,000 years ago, it fell out of favour in the 1900s with the development of modern wheats that gave higher yields and were easier to thresh.

“No seed merchant had ever heard of spelt and so it was quite a task to track it down. I eventually sourced seed myself from Central Europe. This was the seed for my first crop. Subsequent planting has been from my own farm-saved seed,” said Mr Sorrie.

The first seed was sown in autumn 2015, but the hardy grain has a tough outer hull that, unless removed, would have made the crop impossible to mill. With necessity the mother of invention, Mr Sorrie solved the problem in the farm workshop by creating a de-hulling machine. The de-hulled spelt harvest could then be sent for stone grinding at the water-powered Golspie Mill.

Just six months after being harvested, Westfield Spelt won best new retail product at the 2017 North-East Scotland Food & Drink Awards and was subsequently awarded two gold stars in the Guild of Fine Food Great Taste awards. In its first year, 12,000 kilos were sold to shops and restaurants across the northeast and its popularity has soared.

“We supply an ever-increasing number of independent, artisan bakeries who really appreciate the high protein, vitamins and minerals in our flour, as well as its easy rising qualities,” said Mr Sorrie. “Our flour has also been very well received by home bakers.”

He also grows rapeseed for the family’s business, Ola Oils. “We were the first in Scotland to cold press rapeseed back in 2008, and the two crops now account for probably 80%-90% of our production. Malting barley has now become our break crop in order to satisfy the Three Crop Rule,” he said.

And although there are no definite plans for any other products, the family is always ready for another challenge.

“An alternative crop is not for everyone and certainly not for the fainthearted. Weigh up all the options, look at all the pitfalls and then either face them head on, or walk the other way,” said Mr Sorrie.

“We are not just growing the raw materials, but creating the end products and bringing them to market, which is undoubtedly more difficult but always more satisfying.”

Weigh up all the options, look at all the pitfalls and then either face them head on, or walk the other way