The Courier & Advertiser (Fife Edition)
Ottawa really rocks
Bridget heads to Ottawa and reckons it’s one of the world’s coolest cities
There are many reasons why the capital of Canada can be called one of the world’s coolest cities.
Ottawa, the capital of Canada, is undoubtedly one of the coolest cities in the world, not only because of the snowy, sub-zero winters, but also due to the fact that its residents can skate to work on the world’s largest natural outdoor ice rink – a frozen fivemile route along the Rideau Canal.
What took me by surprise during a recent visit was that despite a heavy snowstorm, the city’s annual free Winterlude Festival held every February was in full swing.
Families pulling excited children on sledges were making the most of the wintry weather, marvelling at ice sculptures, playing in the Snowflake Kingdom and tube sliding down icy chutes. With adrenaline rushes such as these, who notices the odd blizzard?
It’s hard to imagine that in summertime, this UNESCO World Heritage Site Rideau Canal system, currently celebrating its 50th birthday in 2020, is awash with pleasure boats cruising through its locks and waterways spanning over 200 km. Or that the al fresco restaurants and bars in buzzy neighbourhoods such as the outdoor ByWard Market are jammed with diners and visitors enjoying the sunshine and local cuisine.
Ottawa is home, after all, to such treats as BeaverTails (a fried flat doughy pastry in the shape of the rodent’s rudder) and more-ish poutine (chips with cheese curds and gravy) – both delicious, but not so good for your waistline. And then there is, of course, maple syrup everywhere you turn, particularly enjoyable when served as “taffy” – poured onto snow and peeled off on a stick like a toffee lollipop.
It’s also refreshing to hear both Canadian French and Canadian English spoken here and the French influence is very evident in the cuisine of the many excellent restaurants, such as the traditional duck confit served in Les Fougères, Chelsea. As well as a strong cafe culture (try the amazing homemade coffee and cakes in Biscotti & Cie), there are plenty of indoor attractions to warm up tingling fingers and toes.
Beautiful Gothic architecture with turrets and spires dominates a splendid skyline atop Parliament Hill. Best of all, when the coast is clear, you can climb the Peace Tower for breathtaking views over the city and riverside landscape.
Part of free parliament tours, you can also see the huge 53-bell carillon that chimes every quarter of an hour.
Across the river from downtown Ottawa, Ontario, you arrive in Gatineau, in Quebec province. Here, the impressive Canadian Museum of History (historymuseum.ca), the most visited of eight national museums, houses the
The French influence is very evident in the cuisine of the many excellent restaurants.
largest collection of Native American totem poles, as well as other interesting interactive exhibits.
A particularly cool fact about Ottawa is that it is so green – well, when it isn’t covered in white stuff. Just a short walk from downtown, extensive Gatineau Park lies in neighbouring Outaouais (pronounced like ‘oot tae way’).
Covering 361 square kilometres, this conservation area has one of the largest networks of cross-country ski trails in North America, with snowshoe and snow biking available or hikes and mountain biking in summer. Downhill ski-ing can be enjoyed here at Camp Fortune or in resorts like Tremblant and Bromont, an hour or two away.
The conservation area provides a peaceful refuge from the buzz of the city, perhaps spotting local wildlife such as the beavers that thrive in the Gatineau and Ottawa Rivers – we noticed their tell-tale calling cards of gnawed branches. If you only see wild deer, you have a better chance of observing native species like bison, elk and Arctic foxes roaming in Omega Park (ParcOmega.com). This unique wildlife
park is the only one of its kind in Quebec and, if brave enough, you can even spend the night in unique accommodation beside the wolves and bears.
Our accommodation was also unique, but for a different reason. Located halfway between Ottawa and Montreal, the Fairmont Le Chateau Montebello (Fairmont.com/Montebello) is the world’s largest log castle. Constructed in 1930, this architectural marvel was built of red cedar logs and is now stylishly updated.
It boasts exquisite restaurants as well a choice of 40 exciting adventures from dog sledding and curling to snowmobiling and golf. It also has one of the largest indoor pools I’ve ever dived into and a relaxing spa with stunning views over the marina.
Yet close to Nordik Spa Nature, North America’s largest spa, I’d urge you to do as the locals do as after the effort of outdoor pursuits – they like a little comfort. Take at least one day to unwind in the numerous outdoor hot and cold baths and indoor Källa saltwater pools (like floating on the Dead Sea) as well as sweating it out in saunas in quirky yurts and shepherd huts. As darkness fell, we enjoyed the twinkling lights of downtown Gatineau-Ottawa below, stars above and cocktails served in the steamy infinity pool as snowflakes gently fell.
For more information on Ottawa and Quebec, visit www.quebecoriginal.com and www.tourismeoutaouais.com