The Courier & Advertiser (Fife Edition)
Tackle the rugged route to Cambodia’s crown jewel in style
The trail from Saigon to Angkor is filled with mystery, adventure and touches of luxury, as Jonjo Maudsley discovers
It’s around eight o’clock in the morning. The sun is low in the sky. The jungle critters are foraging for their breakfast. And here, inside the sanctum of Ta Prohm temple, just beyond the city of Siem Reap in Cambodia, I’ve just bashed my shin. Yes, I’m in agony, but it seems as if the ruins of this ancient Khmer temple, precarious though they may be, are having some sort of healing effect. When you’re surrounded by such majesty, where a tangle of tetrameles tree roots wrap around carved stones from the 12th Century, it’s hard to think about pain.
But how did I get to this incredible temple (and bash my shin)? Well, my journey actually begins in Vietnam...
STARTING FROM SAIGON
Landing in Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon, as the locals prefer to call it, I am met by a guide who will take me through the Mekong Delta, over the border to Cambodia and along its golden coast (with enough time for some islandhopping in the Bay of Kompong Song), then up towards Siem Reap and its ancient neighbour, the jungle city of Angkor. Here’s a top tip he gives me: most people in both Vietnam and Cambodia prefer to deal in US dollars, so no need to bring local currencies.
My first stop on a speedy tour of Vietnam is the bustling metropolis of Can Tho. I arrive with just enough time to fill up on the region’s famous sticky rice at Can Tho Ecolodge, before settling down for an incredible night’s sleep. Just the ticket, because at 6am I’m awake and ready to board the hotel’s river boat.
It takes me to Cai Rang Floating Market, which is exactly what it sounds like. Every day come rain or shine, local traders from the city fill up their small boats with fresh produce and paddle down the Song Hau river. Hopping from deck to deck, I get to sample everything from banh mi (a type of baguette) loaded with shredded pork, to freshly-sliced pineapple dipped in sea salt.
Before I know it, I’m back in the bus headed for the Prek Chak border crossing. It’s a smooth transition into Cambodia. A conveyor belt of guards take turns stamping my passport, smiling as they wave me into their country. First stop: the seaside town of Kep.
TRAVERSING THE CAMBODIAN COAST
A few miles from the border, I take a detour to Anlung Pring (mekongcrane.com; one-day pass $24/£18) which, in early spring, is home to the sarus crane. The treacherous road leaves me feeling nauseous, but it’s worth it to catch a glimpse of the world’s tallest bird.
The next morning, I visit La Plantation. Cambodia’s prize export is its highly sought-after Kampot peppercorn, and La Plantation is one of the largest organic farms in the region. A private tour concludes with a novel experience – a pepper tasting. I am surprised by the notes of aniseed in the red peppercorn, and the citrus in the white – but of course, nothing beats the fiery taste of the black peppercorn. After working up an appetite, I take on a heartier meal at the farm’s restaurant, trying Kampot pepper on everything from ribs and chicken, to eggplant amok (kampotpepper.com; private tour $6/£4.50 per person).
TIME FOR SOME ISLAND HOPPING
After a few hours’ drive, I arrive at a jetty facing into the Bay of Kompong Song. The city of Sihanoukville is to my right, but my destination for this evening is on the horizon. The opulent Six Senses on Krabey Island is accessible only via private speedboat, which takes 30 minutes. I’m welcomed on arrival by an entourage of butlers, who whisk me through the island’s jungle interior towards my decadent and palatial private villa.
I have just enough time to sample the restaurant, which uses ingredients grown on the island’s own organic farm, and the spa, a truly five-star experience that tops off my all-too-brief stay.
The next day, I’m back in the speedboat and en-route to the neighbouring island of Koh Russey, to spend one night at its modular modern masterpiece, Alila Villas. This quiet, minimalist resort has a monopoly of some of the best ocean views in Cambodia. My swim in the sea is a little cold and salty, but thankfully the infinity pool is lovely and warm.
FROM SENSATIONAL SIEM REAP...
The next morning, I head back over the bay to Sihanoukville and catch a 45-minute flight to Siem Reap. Cambodia’s ancient capital, the temple city of Angkor, is a short drive from the modern city of Siem Reap, which has sprung up over the last decade to become a home to many extravagant hotels. One such place is Montra Nivesha, which strikes a tasteful balance between traditional Cambodian design and sophisticated sustainability.
I speak to owner, Tan Sohto, who was born in Siem Reap but forced to flee when it was taken over by the Khmer Rouge. Upon her return, she promised to “give something back to the city and honour what Cambodia went through”.
... TO ANCIENT ANGKOR
An Angkor Pass (only available from the official ticket centre; $62/£48) offers unlimited access to every Angkor temple.
As is tradition, we start our journey with a sunrise visit to Angkor Wat. I must say, the experience is somewhat underwhelming. I arrive to find throngs of tourists camped by the ponds, eager to get “that” Instagram shot.
Inside, I lose touch with any sense of spirituality, as I find myself constantly ducking out of the way of tourists’ selfies. While beautiful beyond compare, I would advise bracing yourself before visiting Angkor Wat, as no matter what time of day you visit, you will have to wade through legions of other visitors for your chance to experience this nonetheless incredible temple.
Thankfully, Angkor Wat is just one of the dozens of temples in Angkor, and it isn’t long until I find one more to my taste: Banteay Srei. While no way comparable in size, this intimate temple invites visitors to get up close and personal with its carvings and reliefs.
The next and final day, I arrive at Ta Phrom, where I began this story. It may be known locally as the “Tomb Raider temple” (Angelina Jolie is a big deal in this part of Cambodia, let me tell you), but the experience is in no way Hollywood. Instead, the crumbling stonework and vicious displays of nature are reminders that Cambodia is still very much home to authentic jungle adventures.
And to that, my bruised shin can testify.