NowonderIrisheyesare smiling once more

Ireland is enjoying a whiskey renaissance after long years when the industry knew nothing but downturn and shrinkage. From around 30 distilleries a century ago, the tally dwindled at its lowest point to just two – Bushmills and Midleton. Then in the 1980s Dr John Teeling opened Cooley distillery near Dundalk and, after a long struggle, it became a successful business, producing a swathe of supermarket own-brand Irish whiskies as well as The Tyrconnell and Connemara single malts. He also reopened Locke’s distillery at Kilbeggan, Co Westmeath.

The Cooley empire was acquired by America’s Jim Beam, in turn taken over by Suntory of Japan. But the Teeling family are still in the business, John Teeling setting up a grain distillery in a former Harp lager brewery and his son opening Dublin’s first new distillery in 120 years in the Liberty district.

But what is more enthralling is the number of small, independent distilleries being set up throughout the Emerald Isle. With distilling controls and legislation relaxed and Ireland emerging from the crisis of 2008, it seems distilling has become one of its growth industries.

It’s an impressive list. Ten distilleries have opened or are at advanced planning stage, with 22 (yes 22) on the horizon. Two are in Northern Ireland – tiny Rademon in Co Down and Niche Distillery in Derry. Niche has been marketing whiskey for 30 years and its distillery is the first new one in Derry for more than a century.

In the republic, operational new distilleries include Tullamore Dew, built at Tullamore by Scotland’s William Grant; Waterford, installed in an exGuinness brewery and launched by Mark Reynier, who helped the rebirth of Bruichladdich on Islay; two distilleries in County Mayo (Connacht and Nephin); plus a distillery at Powerscourt in Co Wicklow, one of Ireland’s most famous stately homes.

At advanced or completed planning stages are Slane Castle in Co Meath, Burren in Co Clare and Boann at Drogheda, north of Dublin. Industry observers predict Irish whiskey exports could soar 300% over the coming years.

No wonder Irish eyes are smiling.