The Courier & Advertiser (Perth and Perthshire Edition)
A high road through history
Annat, Loch Rannoch, Perth & Kinross
To the west of Kinloch Rannoch, perched on the slopes above Loch Rannoch, stand the haunting ruins of Torr a’Chruidh, an old township that, unlike its near neighbour, did not stand the test of time.
While Kinloch Rannoch is still a bustling wee community, all that remains of Torr a’Chruidh – known locally as Annat Village – are the ghostly outlines of farm steadings, cottages and enclosures.
The township, which extended to more than 20 buildings in its day, sits on an enjoyable loop that begins on the shores of the loch, below Annat Farm, and rises over grazing land and moor before descending through a peaceful wooded valley.
By the bridge over the Annat Burn there is a handful of small laybys, including one associated with the local Clan Trail, and, leaving the car here, I set off, a short walk along the road leading to the start of a signed right of way.
Running north through the hills and glens to Dalnaspidal, in Glen Garry, the former drove road guided me first to Annat Farm then up and over pasture where, for part of the way, the route is hemmed in by sturdy stone walls.
Passing grazing sheep and Highland cattle, I enjoyed a hazy early morning outlook east towards the unmistakable pyramidal form of Schiehallion, a scarf of cloud unravelling teasingly from the shoulders of the mountain.
The right of way, popular with early travellers keen to avoid tolls on General Wade’s more direct military road north through the Drumochter Pass, leaves grassland at a high wooden gate and roams over rougher, bracken-covered heath, passing the remains of Torr a’Chruidh.
Sitting either side of the Annat Burn, the hamlet consisted of at least 23 buildings, several enclosures, two corn drying kilns and extensive areas of cultivated ground. While no longer appearing on the Ordnance Survey’s Landranger map of the area, Torr a’Chruidh does feature on the agency’s more detailed 1:25,000 scale map. Sadly, depopulation led to its abandonment in the mid-19th Century.
Crossing the Annat Burn, the track continues to climb north before swinging west, ahead a fine upland traverse, the old road appreciating the shelter of a plantation of pine before it strikes out across more exposed heather moor.
To the south, Creagan Odhar’s pimpled summit ridge stood between me and Loch Rannoch while, to the west Beinn Mholach, a remote Corbett rising from the folds of Craiganour Forest, dominates the landscape.
After peaking below Druim na Seilge, the trail enjoys a lazy descent into the next glen where I left the drove road to its journey north, the still waters of the distant loch drawing me south.
A more robust gravel track follows the Allt a’Chreagain Odhair downstream, entering birch woodland beyond a track junction and gate.
Enjoying the shade of the trees, I skirted around the periphery of the policies of Craiganour Lodge, a former Victorian shooting lodge with an exceptional outlook over Loch Rannoch, before wandering down the track to meet the B846.
While the old Road to the Isles initially sits back from the loch, it soon converges upon the shoreline where gaps in the foliage offer access to slender stretches of pebble beach, tempting spots to sit and savour a familiar view of Schiehallion, one that has graced many a postcard and calendar.
ROUTE
1. Walk 300m east on B846. 2. Turn left on track (signed Dalnaspidal by Loch Garry), passing under pylon line, to Annat Farm. Bear right through metal gate and ascend track by wall, passing through high metal gate. Ignore track branching left and continue up to two high metal gates. 3. Go through right-hand gate and walk east between walls. Swing left and ascend between walls to high wooden gate. 4. Beyond gate, walk north on track to Torr a’Chruidh ruins. Bear right where track forks at marker post and continue north, crossing Annat Burn. 5. Swing left by locked gate and ladder stile on right and follow track west over moorland, ignoring tracks branching left. 6. Turn left and descend gravel track. 7. Ignore track branching right and continue south on main track. 8. Turn right at Craiganour Lodge entrance and descend track to B846. 9. Turn left and follow B846 east, back to start.