The Courier & Advertiser (Perth and Perthshire Edition)
Awe-struck by tranquility of our lochside idyll
Ever wanted to escape the noise and bustle of everyday life? Jonathan Watson has found just the place for a peaceful getaway
Tweets, instagrams, the ping of yet another email arriving into your inbox, the grating beat of someone’s too-loud music on the morning commute... it’s no wonder so many of us crave the holy grail of silence but is it really achievable? What are the chances that you might happen across a place so remote, so quiet, that the likelihood of hearing absolutely nothing is a distinct possibility?
Well just over a two-hour drive from Fife I found a place that is so still, so calm, that I may just have experienced perfect solitude for the first time in my life.
Tucked away on the glorious banks of Loch Awe is Ardanaiseig, a Grade II-listed mansion house that has been transformed into one of Scotland’s finest luxury hotels.
Situated in the shadow of Beinn a’Bhuiridh, it is a setting worthy of the silver screen; another addition to that “places I would like to live if I win the lottery” list.
Built in 1834 by Colonel James Archibald Campbell, Ardanaiseig (“ar-den-ass-ay”) is owned by art dealer Bennie Gray today, and is a property just as opulent and characterful as its surroundings– perfect for a romantic getaway.
Finding this hidden gem is no easy task and for drivers of a nervous disposition, a few brave pills may be required to tackle the 10-mile singletrack road from Taynuilt, the nearest village, to the hotel.
However, when you reach your destination you’ll soon discover that the reward for completing the journey has been more than worth it.
This really is the middle of nowhere – and it’s wonderful.
The driveway to the house itself is lined by stunning, colourful shrubbery and firs so tall they must have taken root centuries ago and the extensive grounds, which extend right down to the shores of the loch, are spectacular in their wild beauty.
As we would learn, it’s easy to spend hours exploring the many paths around the estate, discovering everything from the secret garden hideaway to a wishing well, while the hills afford the perfect vantage point to enjoy views out over the loch and beyond.
Pulling up with the sun beating down on us, the welcome at the front door was every bit as warm. This is decadence at its finest, minus the pretention. What you’ll find here is luxury, splendour and a typically warm Scottish welcome.
We were swiftly checked in and shown to our room, Tervine, which like all of the rooms here is named after local villages or landmarks.
It offered a breathtaking view right over the loch, picture postcard perfect in its splendour.
While glorious during the daytime, there was something particularly special about looking out in the wee small hours on a stunning starry sky set against a perfectly inky backdrop.
The wild beauty of the house and its surroundings, gently lapping water on the loch, that star-studded sky... it’s easy
to understand why Ardanaiseig has been named Scotland’s Romantic Hotel of the Year, and that’s just one of just a host of accolades it has received in recent years. It’s hard to think of anywhere more idyllic to spend a memorable weekend with someone special and no distractions.
As you might imagine from a house of its age and splendour, the rooms are generous in size, filled with beautiful period furniture and quirky paintings, no more than you would expect from a property owned by an art dealer.
And then there’s the food. While it doesn’t come cheap at £50 a head, dinner was a feast full of flavour and creative twists, all to be savoured while enjoying the spectacular view of the sun setting over the water
In keeping with the fabulous lochside location, our five-course extravaganza began with a delicious confit of salmon and poached oyster. Butternut squash with roasted pepper and coconut milk soup was served next, followed by a hearty dish of seared lamb loin and pan fried belly served with potato terrine, wild garlic and leek and a thyme jus – all featuring simple, fresh ingredients cooked to perfection.
And if you happen to get bored of looking out of the window – unlikely, to say the least – check out the art work in the room. I won’t spoil the surprise, but let’s just say you’ll find a painting that’ll get everyone talking over dinner...
It may be isolated but if you’re worried you’ll run out of things to keep you occupied, don’t. Guests are encouraged to make the most of Loch Awe so take some time out to hire one of the boats and sail over to one of the tiny islands that can be seen from the hotel.
And, if you’ve still got some courage in reserve after negotiating the drive to Ardanaiseig, the hotel directory suggests another activity that will certainly enliven the senses – a dip in the loch itself. Cold but invigorating. At least, that’s what it says here.
If manicured lawns, pristine flower beds and sleek modern luxury are your thing then this probably isn’t the place for you, but if you want to discover the wild, untempered beauty of Loch Awe and the quirky delights that come with staying in an ancient property whose walls pulse with the stories of centuries past, I’d say Ardanaiseig might well be the perfect destination to add to your bucket list.