My word: this is a festival worthhominginon

Magnificent Dumfries House is the perfect venue for the Boswell Book Festival – and even the MacNaughties can get in on the act

This week takes us west on the winding roads to East Ayrshire. The Boswell Book Festival is the world’s only festival of biography and memoir and it is named after a local lad: the 18th Century writer James Boswell. Bozzy, as he was known, became friends with the English essayist and critic Dr Samuel Johnson.

Johnson compiled the definitive dictionary of the English language. Yet, despite his way with words, he was a rough and ready soul – and someone rumoured not to like Scots.

Indeed, on their first meeting Bozzy is said to have admitted: ‘Yes, I come from Scotland but I cannot help it.’ It was a disarming statement – and the two would go on to work and travel together.

In 1773 they embarked on an infamous tour of the Hebrides. They were in search of tartan romance but disappointment ensued.

The Highland uprisings had come and gone and the days when a roaring clan chief walked out ‘attended by 10 or 12 followers, with arms rattling’ were over.

Our intrepid travellers expected to find the Laird of Sleat drinking whisky and roasting oxen over a fire. Instead Sir Alexander MacDonald told them he dared not carry many arms because the damp weather always made them rust.

My chief also leaves his weaponry behind for this modern-day literary outing. Not because of the weather. But because this is 2018. And one should not be seen swinging swords in public places. Even if one is MacGregor of MacGregor…

Anyhow, the festival has some great names – so great that we cannot get in to see the more popular talks. Dame Judy Dench, Anthony Horowitz and Alexander McCall Smith are among those whose sessions are sell-outs. The moral is to book early.

We do, however, get to see a good discussion about nationalism and independence, as newspaper columnist, Matthew Parris, BBC correspondent, Allan Little and journalist and writer Neal Ascherson take to the stage.

The Boswell Book Festival is held in the grounds of Dumfries House, a stately home and its contents saved some years ago from sale and dispersion by Prince Charles. Now open as a visitor attraction and educational centre for rural skills, it is magnificent. The collection of Chippendale furniture is worth a visit on its own. A chair that cost a few pounds in 1759 is now worth more

Yet, despite his way with words, he was a rough and ready soul – and someone rumoured not to like Scots

than a million. A sideboard could fetch 20 times that.

For the MacNaughties, this is also a rather rich day. They come along for the ride and while we take the tour they have a fun time barking through the car window at other passing dogs.

When we return they are put on leads and we walk round the grounds. We cross the Chinese Bridge. We take a peek at the arboretum. So much to see and write about. Bozzy would be in his element.