Countryside and castles

It’s good to have days out here and there and the Doyenne took an executive decision that it was time we had a day off. We bundled Inka into the car and headed for Cairn o’ Mount to see where the wind blew us.

Cresting the Cairn – summit of the old military and even older drove road – and looking back towards the coast, the Howe of the Mearns was veiled in light mist. The Cairn is more than a gateway between the Mearns and Aberdeenshire, it is also a buffer between two, often quite distinct, local weather systems.

Dropping down into Glen Dye we drove into sunshine and armadas of high cumulus clouds.

Westwards was the familiar shape of Clachnaben with its prominent granite outcrop perched, like a pot lid, on its top.

At the foot of the hill the old Brig o’ Dye crosses the Water of Dye. It’s a bridge of charm and character which was only replaced by the modern bridge running alongside it 40 years ago.

Turning off at the wooden AA box we took the B976 to Aboyne. We were headed for Finzean and our favourite farm shop for coffee and to buy a Selkirk Bannock. Riverside run

Skirting Aboyne, we took the winding, wooded South Deeside road (B976) following the River Dee. The scars of the flooding of 2016 are still very evident.

The distinctive sugar loaf shape of Craigendarroch, meaning Hill of Oaks and commemorated in a famous bagpipe tune, towers over Ballater. This is Royal Deeside, but we skipped Ballater too, keeping to the B976 which takes you to the east gates of Balmoral and the bridge over the river to Crathie and its kirk where the royal family worships.

On the outskirts of the village of Braemar is Braemar Castle, built in 1628 by the Earls of Mar. On then through Braemar and into bleak Glenshee with tumbling

tawny burns bickering in the late summer sun.

Three more castles

Drive on over the Cairnwell Pass, Scotland’s highest stretch of main road. The notorious old double hairpin bend a mile further on, known as the Devil’s Elbow, has been straightened out but the route of the old road can still be traced in the heather.

Five miles past Spittal of Glenshee take the B951 to Glenisla and the Cateran Trail. Crossing the River Isla you’ll see Forter Castle, built in 1560 by the 5th Lord of Airlie. Burned down in 1650, it has been restored as a home.

At the foot of the glen follow the finger post directing you on an unclassified road to Balintore Castle. It’s an austere building being restored single-handedly by the owner and has spectacular views over the River Tay.

The road winds down a long, steep hill to Auldallan Farm. After Kirriemuir we were on the home run past Caddam Wood, and turreted Cortachy Castle sitting down in the haugh by the River South Esk. Fern, Tigerton, Edzell and then home.

It had been a day of four castles and great contrasts through wonderful countryside. It’s why I know we’ll never live anywhere else.

The austere-looking Balintore Castle under restoration.