A trip upstairs and downstairs

Kemback, Blebocraigs and Strathkinness, Fife

The neighbouring hamlets of Kemback and Blebocraigs occupy the wooded western flank of Clatto Hill, rising from the valley of the River Eden in northeast Fife. Meanwhile, the larger village of Strathkinness lies a little to the east. Beginning down in Dura Den, where the Ceres Burn cascades past former flax spinning mills and cottages, this loop links the three communities, with a flight of more than 200 steps to conquer along the way.

Kemback Village Hall, my starting point, sits just across the road from the burn and heading downstream past a sprightly little waterfall, I made for Kemback Bridge where the road to Kemback branches sharp right, climbing steeply to the present day Kemback Parish Church.

Behind this early 19th Century place of worship, the route resumes its climb and it is here that Jenny’s Steps are encountered, a long-established right of way linking Kemback with Blebocraigs.

They are named after a local lady, Jenny, who lived in Hillside Cottage at the bottom of the staircase and, clambering up through mature woodland, there are around 215 steps to mount in all, quite a challenge for the legs.

After pausing for a breather at the top, I tramped up the lane to Blebocraigs, where I took the high road, the ascent continuing past scattered steadings, cottages and pony paddocks, Kemback Wood to my left.

Where the road ends, a track leads on, heading east by the last couple of outlying houses at Flisk, cutting between fields and copses of woodland before swinging north and weaving down to meet the road to Strathkinness.

The rural byway rises steadily to Knockhill Farm before enjoying an unhurried descent through farmland overlooking the Eden valley, the sprawling mudflats of the Eden Estuary lying between Tentsmuir and the military base at Leuchars and the golf links of St Andrews, to the east.

Entering Strathkinness, I remained on the High Road as far as the local tavern, where I turned down Main Street to the

thecouriermagazine war memorial. Here, I branched right, the start of my return leg following Bonfield Road west, past a community orchard and vegetable garden, to its end, a grassy track projecting beyond the last of the houses.

Maps from the early 20th Century suggest a well-travelled route from Strathkinness up to Blebocraigs – it was used to transport both stone from quarries and flax from Blebo Mills to markets in Dundee and St Andrews, bypassing the toll roads of the time.

Beyond a muddy stream crossing, the old track disappears beneath ploughed fields, but a slender path between furrows affords access to Easter Clatto Farm.

Here, the way broadens out once again, skirting past farm sheds on the left before rising over Clatto Hill, the trig point perched atop a grassy knoll by a small covered reservoir up to the right.

The way descends through the centre of Blebocraigs, a mix of older cottages and more modern housing, returning me to Jenny’s Steps – the staircase a much more welcome sight on the descent. ROUTE

1. Go left out of car park along roadside footpath for 200m then turn right up road (signed Kemback) to Kemback Parish Church.

2. Pass to left of church, bear right up lane then go left up Jenny’s Steps (signed Kemback) to meet minor road. Continue ahead for 400m up road, ignoring lane branching right, to junction.

3. Go left up narrow lane, follow it to its end then continue ahead on track to T-junction.

4. Turn left, descending track to road.

5. Turn right and follow road east to Strathkinness.

6. Turn right at Strathkinness Tavern, descend Main Street to war memorial and go right, following Bonfield Road west to its end.

7. Continue ahead on track then path over farmland to Easter Clatto.

8. Ascend track, passing to right of sheds and continue ahead to Y-junction.

9. Progress ahead on short strip of grassy track then road through Blebocraigs. Bear right at phone box to return to point 3 and retrace route via Jenny’s Steps to Kemback.