Try game for a taste of autumn

Paul Newman, chef proprietor of Thyme at Errichel near Aberfeldy, makes a classic French dish using pheasant

In keeping with the season, wood pigeon and pheasant are very much on the menu. Available from most local butchers, ask for an oven-ready pheasant or pigeon, pick up some good apples and enjoy some warming seasonal cooking.

Based on a French classic, chicken Normandy, pictured above, I have used pheasant but you could try this recipe with any other game bird or poultry. I have used a Dutch oven (or any heavy pan with a well fitting lid), but you could use a slow cooker, to keep the moisture in).The recipe serves 2-3 people.

You’ll need 50g butter; 2 apples, cored and sliced into wedges; flour for dusting and thickening sauce; one oven-ready pheasant or chicken, 500600g; 150g pancetta or bacon lardons; salt; large onion, finely chopped; 2 sticks finely chopped celery; one clove garlic, minced; 150ml chicken stock; 100ml apple brandy; 400ml apple cider; 2 sprigs thyme; 60ml double cream.

SSaltl thhe pheasant and let it sit at room tempperature for 30 minutes. Heeat 20g of thhe butter in a large, ovenprroof pan over mmedium heat.

AAdd the apple slices and sauté until they turn a little brown around the edges, turning occasionally. Sprinkle the apple slices with a little salt. Set aside on paper towels.

Dustthepheasantinflourandaddtheremaining 30g of butter to the pan. Brown the pheasant for 2 to 5 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.

Add the onion, celery and bacon lardons and increase heat to medium-high. Sauté until the onions and celery are softened and the bacon cooked.

Add garlic and cook for another minute or two. Take the pan off the heat and pour in the brandy. Put the pan back on the heat and, using a wooden spoon, scrape any browned bits off the bottom.

Let the brandy boil until it has reduced by about half. Add the stock and the cider and bring to the boil.

Add the thyme. Lay the pheasantht in the pan, cover and simmeer until tender, anywhere from 90 minutesm to 150mins. Turn the heat too high, add the apples and boil dowwn the sauce by half.

When the sauce is reducced and coats the back of the spoon, turn off the heat and add the cream. Add salt to taste and enjoy!