A taste of something new

Let’s face it, the industry – particularly in London – was already in trouble even before Covid-19 turned up like The Grim Reaper trading in his scythe for a Wüsthof.

Big chains with sizeable premises may emerge relatively unscathed while, even as I write, Sardine (my favourite opening of 2016: “not merely good, properly great”) has gone under. Intimate small-scale restaurants were unlikely to have adapted to the twometre rule and may still struggle with the one metre; Sardine’s beating heart was its long, skinny communal table.

And yet, I refuse to believe that the cleverest restaurateurs won’t somehow find ways to both survive and thrive.

The Corbin & Kings of the world will have the flexibility and, frankly, the cash to finesse their offers to match health and safety demands without compromising on atmosphere… for the rest, a survival-of-the-fittest mentality will depend on luck as much as skill. And, indeed, on the weather, too. For the next few months, anywhere with an outdoor space has the potential to make a killing. Let’s all do our bit to help put the Restaurant-Reaper out of business.

Tips for diners

> Book well ahead

Most restaurants have reopened with limited capacity and with the public’s pent-up appetite for eating out tables will be in short supply.

> Look for outdoor hospitality

Pubs, cafés and restaurants with outdoor seating are likely to accommodate more customers, providing more of a buzz than an empty spot.

> Be prepared to wait

Whether it’s for a reservation, or in a queue before being allowed in to ensure social distancing is met, patience may be required, especially as restaurants (and customers) find their feet.

> Expect changes

Eating behind screens or being served by masked waiters may be unsettling, but be reassured that increased cleaning is going on behind the scenes.

> Consider alternatives

Many pubs and restaurants have morphed into delis, begun offering deliveries or launched recipe kits for home cooking: delicious ways of enjoying their food without eating in.

> Stay safe

Just because you can, it doesn’t mean you should. If you’re vulnerable it might be better to wait; if you’re unwell, don’t go.