The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - The Telegraph Magazine

What’s all the fuss about… blackheads?

- By acting Telegraph beauty director Victoria Hall

Have you ever googled blackhead extraction? Be warned, you need a strong stomach. But with more than two million people subscribin­g to the YouTube channel of Dr Pimple Popper, a US dermatolog­ist who specialise­s in blemishes, it’s safe to say that I’m not the only person eager to unclog my pores.

My obsession started about a year ago, when I started cycling to and from work. While it has improved my fitness levels and forces me to switch off mentally, it’s been a disaster for my skin. Clusters of stubborn blackheads have accumulate­d across my forehead, nose, chin and jawline.

A monthly Murad City Facial at House of Fraser, which includes extraction, or regular light-therapy treatments (try Skin Laundry at Liberty) will clean and minimise pores. Keeping blackheads at bay for the rest of the month requires a few tweaks to your daily routine.

Contrary to popular belief, blackheads aren’t a sign of uncleanlin­ess. ‘They occur when an open pore becomes blocked with natural oils, dead skin and bacteria,’ says skin specialist Debbie Thomas. ‘When the melanin (the pigment that gives hair and skin colour) in the pore becomes oxidised it turns black.’ Scrubbing at them can be tempting, but it’s best to embrace acid.

‘BHA (such as salicylic acid) is by far the best ingredient to reduce or possibly eliminate blackheads because it can cut through oil (the technical term is that it’s lipophilic),’ explains another skincare expert, Paula Begoun. ‘It exfoliates the surface skin and in the pore.’ It’s also more pleasant than squeezing. After a year’s thorough testing, these are the blackhead banishers worth their salt.

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