The glories of grenache

Grenache is a grape variety that has truly benefited from the current trend for making wines with a lighter touch. In the past, the danger had been to let the fruit ripen too long on the vine and work too hard with the grapes in the winery. The result: rich wines, high in alcohol, which impressed for a glass but were difficult to drink half a bottle of. Now wineries aim for a more elegant style. Grenache plays a leading role in the celebrated red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and is widely planted in southern France, Spain and Australia.

Resulting wines are characterised by sweet red fruit, with spice lurking in the background. Grenache has a gentle structure generally low in tannin and acidity, making the wines easy to broach in their youth. The best, meanwhile, can age beautifully. Its juicy appeal makes it ideal as a blending component, which is how you are likely to come across it in France. In Spain, where gnarly old vines make wine full of character at bargain prices, grenache generally stars on its own. Its low tannins make an ideal glass for those who like to drink a richer red on its own, but it also likes bold, full-flavoured food: try it with Italian-sausage risotto. 2015 Venturer Series Costières de Nîmes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France £4.99, Aldi Here, grenache is paired with one of its favoured partners, syrah: dark plums and black pepper, in a wine that is a real bargain. 2015 The Cubist Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain £9.99, Waitrose Ancient 100-year-old vines go into this, an intense, rich, darkly fruited wine with smouldering spice. Powerful but always poised. 2014 Grenache, The Foundary, Stellenbosch, South Africa £12.95, The Wine Society An elegant, modern style of grenache: a beautifully polished glass with raspberries giving way to darker fruits, behind which is vivid spice.