Wines to convert the chardonnay haters

Chardonnay’s performance on the Tate’s wine lists is chronically unbalanced. On one side is burgundy, its spiritual home in villages such as Chablis or Puligny-montrachet. Many are niche wines on account of their price, yet still sell remarkably well. Then we have chardonnay from the rest of the world, certainly not the same in taste but offering a similar feel. It is much harder to convince people to buy these.

There is no such disparity with sauvignon blanc, which sells in equal quantities whether from Sancerre or Marlborough. Distrust of the grape is a hangover from the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement that was a reaction to the brash oaky New World wines in vogue 25 years ago. Producers worldwide have since changed tack, and the result is cleaner, fresher bottles that are easier to drink and better partners to food. Chardonnay rarely has the refreshment factor of a sauvignon or pinot grigio, so is best appreciated at the table. It, of course, likes fish, but also chicken – add a creamy sauce to either and so much the better. One of my favourite ways to enjoy it is at the end of a meal with a Camembert or Tunworth. 2015 Chardonnay, Mezquiriz, Navarra, Spain £4.99, Lidl This certainly has a retro feel to it with its creamy, rich palate, but there is also plenty of freshness. Ideal with a Sunday-roast chicken. 2015 Chardonnay ‘Filius’, Vasse Felix, Margaret River, Western Australia £15.99 or £11.99 in a mixed six, Majestic Wine An exemplary bottle of modern Aussie chardonnay. It is full of bright citrus and peach. 2014 Chardonnay, Bloemendal Estate, Durbanville, South Africa £15.50, The Wine Society Rich, powerful and with a taste that leaves a long impression. A wine to ponder that is remarkable value.