Drink me Hamish Anderson

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - NEWS -

I once went on a hol­i­day to Bur­gundy where we had an end­less ar­ray of the finest chardon­nay and pinot noir (the two main grapes of Bur­gundy) the re­gion could of­fer. This was sup­posed to be a one-off treat, yet by day three I was sick of drink­ing meur­sault by the pool and yearned for the clear pu­rity of a sau­vi­gnon at quar­ter of the price.

It taught me a valu­able les­son: wine should first and fore­most be mar­ried to oc­ca­sion. The easy-go­ing prin­ci­ples be­hind Rose’s recipes can also be ap­plied to wine. Sim­ple can be a deroga­tory term when used to de­scribe a wine, yet that’s ex­actly what I want when the sun is out and I know friends are com­ing over.

Just as I don’t want to spend hours in the kitchen, so I don’t want wine that re­quires too much thought. Whether red, white or rosé, bot­tles that are of­ten dom­i­nated by one flavour hit the spot: crisp, ap­p­ley pros­ecco, or lightly chilled rasp­berry-scented beau­jo­lais – these are styles that come un­bur­dened with ex­pec­ta­tion, be­ing not ter­ri­bly ex­pen­sive or re­garded as ‘fine’.

As for be­ing speedy, many are likely to come with a screw cap – grant­ing not only quick prepa­ra­tion, but en­joy­ably swift con­sump­tion, too.

2015 Vi­nus Clairette, Paul Mas, Langue­doc, France, £8, Mor­risons

There is a pu­rity of flavour here that veers to­wards the savoury rather than fruity: soft green herbs and grass. A lovely apéri­tif.

2016 Coli­nas del Itata Old Vine Field Blend Mus­cat/cor­into, De Martino, Itata, Chile, £10, Marks & Spencer

Glo­ri­ous warmweather wine with flow­ers (typ­i­cal of mus­cat), le­mon peel and in­ten­sity.

2014 Soli Pinot Noir, Edoardo Miroglio, Thra­cian Val­ley, Bul­garia, £11.95, swig.co.uk

The best vin­tage yet of this bril­liant-value pinot: light in colour, yet with a soar­ing per­fume of vi­o­let and cherry. Serve cool.

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