The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - The Telegraph Magazine

Drink me Hamish Anderson

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I once went on a holiday to Burgundy where we had an endless array of the finest chardonnay and pinot noir (the two main grapes of Burgundy) the region could offer. This was supposed to be a one-off treat, yet by day three I was sick of drinking meursault by the pool and yearned for the clear purity of a sauvignon at quarter of the price.

It taught me a valuable lesson: wine should first and foremost be married to occasion. The easy-going principles behind Rose’s recipes can also be applied to wine. Simple can be a derogatory term when used to describe a wine, yet that’s exactly what I want when the sun is out and I know friends are coming over.

Just as I don’t want to spend hours in the kitchen, so I don’t want wine that requires too much thought. Whether red, white or rosé, bottles that are often dominated by one flavour hit the spot: crisp, appley prosecco, or lightly chilled raspberry-scented beaujolais – these are styles that come unburdened with expectatio­n, being not terribly expensive or regarded as ‘fine’.

As for being speedy, many are likely to come with a screw cap – granting not only quick preparatio­n, but enjoyably swift consumptio­n, too.

2015 Vinus Clairette, Paul Mas, Languedoc, France, £8, Morrisons

There is a purity of flavour here that veers towards the savoury rather than fruity: soft green herbs and grass. A lovely apéritif.

2016 Colinas del Itata Old Vine Field Blend Muscat/corinto, De Martino, Itata, Chile, £10, Marks & Spencer

Glorious warmweathe­r wine with flowers (typical of muscat), lemon peel and intensity.

2014 Soli Pinot Noir, Edoardo Miroglio, Thracian Valley, Bulgaria, £11.95, swig.co.uk

The best vintage yet of this brilliant-value pinot: light in colour, yet with a soaring perfume of violet and cherry. Serve cool.

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