face up to colour

the new bronz­ers de­serve gold medals

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - NEWS - lisa arm­strong

I LOVE make-up, but bronzer has al­ways left me cold. The wal­nut ty in­ten­sity of all those pal­ettes. The weird, Dis­ney fi ed blur­rific at ion of the kar­dashi­ans.

Then one morn­ing, my 24-year-old daugh­ter and I co­in­cided in the kitchen. ‘You look tired,’ she ob­served. (un­bi­ased, agenda-free hon­esty is the duty of all daugh­ters.) ‘ You look like a Wall’ sVi­enn et ta,’ I re­sponded( hon­esty de­serves hon­esty ). I wasn’t wear­ing any­thing on my skin. She, a bronzer be­liever, had ap­plied hers in haste with the blinds down.

We took our­selves to Covent Gar­den, which has be­come the com­mand con­trol cen­tre for nu­mer­ous cos­metic brands’ bou­tiques and co­pi­ous free makeovers (Chanel, Bobbi Brown, Dior, Ben­e­fit…), and ap­proached ar­mani, on the ba­sis that its prod­ucts are un­beat­able.

It also has cham­pagne, which can help. I came away con­vinced that bronz­ing, or con­tour­ing as it must now be called, can sig­nif­i­cantly en­hance any woman’ s face, re­gard­less of age or skin tone. ac­tu­ally, con tour­ing is a bet­ter name, since this is about en­hanc­ing struc­ture, rather than ladling on fake colour.

Ob­vi­ously, speci­fici­ties vary from per­son to per­son. But as­sum­ing you’re go­ing for a healthy fin­ish and sub­tle ac­cen­tu­a­tion of your eyes, cheek­bones and jaw­line (all this and more can be achieved) rather than full drag, here’s what you need to know: 1 Bronzer can be ap­plied over foun­da­tion, or di­rectly on to bare, evenly mois­turised, serum-ised, con­cealer-ised skin. ar­mani’s prima Glow-on mois­tur­iz­ing Balm leaves skin dewy. This is not to be con­fused with its uv primer (part of the mae­stro range), which pro­tects from pol­lu­tion and can be ap­plied over or un­der mois­turiser, to boost the stay­ing power of your bronzer or foun­da­tion, and add yet more sheen and SPF50. 2 Brushes are as im­por­tant as the pow­ders. a small f lat one for the darker hues un­der the cheek­bones and jaw­line, a large, round one for high­lighter and, depend­ing on the size of your cheeks, a medium one for pops of blusher. Nat­u­ral bris­tles are best for pow­der, syn­thet­ics for liq­uids. If you can run to it, get an even big­ger, soft brush for blend­ing once you’ve ap­plied the in­di­vid­ual shades. 3 pow­der bronz­ers, liq­uid bronz­ers, sparkly bronz­ers (again, more sub­tle than they sound), iri­des­cent bronz­ers – the choice is be­fud­dling, and that’s just at ar­mani. It’s per­sonal. Try them out. Seek coun­sel. 4 Those ter­ri­fy­ing-look­ing bar­be­cued pal­lets can rest in peace. If your com­plex­ion is mid-spec­trum to pale, fo­cus on light bis­cuit-y shades rather than ter­ra­cotta. Even just one or two shades darker than your skin can achieve im­pres­sive def­i­ni­tion. The aim is to ac­cen­tu­ate bone struc­ture, not fake a Bar­bie tan. The ar­mani make-up artist ap­plied a light pow­der from the brand’s new sum­mer Sun­rise pal­ette un­der my cheek­bones, in the dip be­low my mouth, at the sides of my nose to nar­row it (who knew it was wide?) and any­where the il­lu­sion of shadow might swivel at­ten­tion on to what’s di­rectly above or to the side (cleav­age). Next, high­lighter along the bridge of the nose, in the cleft above your lips and cheek­bones, and be­neath and above the eye­brow arch. Fi­nally, a pop of cheek colour. Char­lotte Til­bury’s con­tour­ing pal­ettes in­clude a blush and – ge­nius – are num­bered so you know pre­cisely what to ap­ply where. 5 ac­tu­ally, not f in­ally. Fi­nally is t he blend i ng. Then more blend i ng. Br ush, sweep, br ush, sweep – wit h feath­ery strokes. You don’t want to wipe away all your work. It sounds la­bo­ri­ous, but it’s over in less than eight min­utes. I ar­rive 20 years late to this party, but I now con­tour ever y day: for t he end re­sults – and be­cause a quick flir­ta­tion with the pow­der brush is a de­light­ful, af­fir­ma­tive way to be­gin the morn­ing.

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