Tel Aviv’s eclec­tic cui­sine comes to Lon­don

Tel Aviv’s cui­sine com­bines Mid­dle East­ern and Euro­pean in­flu­ences, to de­li­cious efect

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - CONTENT - Amy Bryant tlvinldn.org

VI­BRANT HERB sal­ads heavy on mint and lemon and stud­ded with pine nuts and pome­gran­ate seeds; crisp pas­try parcels filled with but­tery egg and spinach; beef and date-mo­lasses ke­babs on fra­grant cin­na­mon sticks, like lol­lipops. The food of Tel Aviv draws from ev­ery­one who has ever passed through Is­rael’s cos­mopoli­tan coastal city, says Shaul Ben Aderet, one of its star chefs. ‘It comes from Europe and Africa, with each set­tler bring­ing his own kitchen.’

The re­sult is a cel­e­bra­tion of veg­eta­bles, herbs and olive oil, fresh fish and lamb, and a he­do­nis­tic ap­proach to feast­ing that Ben Aderet aims to re­cre­ate in Lon­don this week­end. TLV in LDN is a fes­ti­val that has been a year in the plan­ning, a ‘crazy’ ex­trav­a­ganza, he ex plains, bring­ing to­gether ar ti sts, mu­si­cians, fash­ion and food.

The chef and owner of three restau­rants in Is­rael and one of the event’s key cu­ra­tors, Ben Aderet was born to par­ents of Iraqi and Greek de­scent, and his menus are as likely to star chicken-liver pâté laced with Cal­va­dos as they are kibbeh soup with its semolina dumplings. The Round­house in Cam­den, north Lon­don, is this week­end his shuk, trans­pos­ing Tel Aviv’s bustling mar­ket scenes into food stalls bear­ing tiramisu-flavoured ice cream from the city’s hippest gela­te­ria, Anita, and street-food serv­ings of Le­van­tine-in­spired chicken shawarma. ‘What bet­ter way to trans­port the flavours and colours of such a happy, 24-hour city than through food?’

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