Pot-roasted breast of par­tridge with truf­fle sauce and cele­riac

Serves 4

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - THE CUT / FOOD -

For the truf­fled Madeira sauce

— 55g salted but­ter — 50g shal­lots, chopped — 50g mush­rooms, sliced — 400ml Malm­sey Madeira — 3 white pep­per­corns — ½ bay leaf — 1 thyme sprig — 500ml good-qual­ity veal

jus (avail­able to buy on­line) — 20g fresh black truf­fle,

finely chopped — 50ml ruby port

For the cele­riac

— 1 cele­riac, about 500g,

scrubbed — 200g goat’s but­ter

For the par­tridge

— 200g salted but­ter — 4 oven-ready par­tridges

(gut­ted and tied)

For the veg­eta­bles

— 150g kale leaves — 25ml veg­etable oil — 8g (about 1 tbsp) pine nuts — 200g sal­sify, peeled and

cut into 9cm ba­tons — 50g goat’s but­ter

To serve (op­tional)

— 8 Chante­nay car­rots, peeled and cooked in a but­ter and wa­ter emul­sion for 8 min­utes — 1 golden and 1 pur­ple beet­root, peeled, baked in foil with salted but­ter and thyme, then cut into eighths To start the Madeira sauce, heat a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add 30g of the but­ter, then the shal­lots and mush­rooms. Sweat un­til the mush­rooms have re­leased their liq­uid and the shal­lots are soft­ened and start­ing to lightly colour, about five min­utes. Add 350ml of the Madeira, along with the pep­per­corns, bay leaf and thyme, and bring to the boil. Re­duce by half over a medium-low heat, about 10 min­utes.

Stir in the veal jus and sim­mer for 40 min­utes, or un­til the sauce coats the back of a spoon (when you run a fin­ger along the back of the sauced spoon, ex­pos­ing the me­tal, the sauce should not re-cover the trail). Check and ad­just the sea­son­ing to taste. Pass through a finemesh sieve and keep warm un­til ready to use.

Now cook the cele­riac. This large orb will need a good 30 min­utes to cook to the tex­ture and taste we want. Place the cele­riac in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and add the goat’s but­ter. Heat un­til the but­ter is foam­ing, then cover with a tight-fit­ting lid and re­duce the heat. Turn oc­ca­sion­ally to en­sure even colour­ing. Test for done­ness with a knife, as you would pota­toes. Set aside.

Pre­heat the oven to 220C/ gas mark 7.

Next, con­tinue the truf­fled sauce. Over a medium-low heat, sweat the truf­fle in the re­main­ing 25g but­ter for four min­utes. Add the port and the re­main­ing 50ml of Madeira. Slowly re­duce by half, about 10 min­utes.

Com­bine the truf­fle sauce with 120ml of the warm Madeira sauce you made ear­lier (the re­main­ing Madeira sauce will keep in the re­frig­er­a­tor for five days in a sealed con­tainer), and bring to the boil. Re­duce the heat and sim­mer very gen­tly for 20 min­utes, skim­ming oc­ca­sion­ally. Sea­son to taste, then re­move from the heat.

To cook the par­tridges, foam the but­ter over a medium-high heat in a heavy-based fry­ing pan. Add the par­tridges and baste the birds gen­er­ously. Sea­son with salt. Trans­fer to the oven and roast for about 6-8 min­utes, un­til the birds ap­pear golden-brown.

While the birds are cook­ing, sauté the kale very quickly in a pan with a lit­tle veg­etable oil. Add the pine nuts. In a sep­a­rate pan, caramelise the sal­sify in the goat’s but­ter un­til ten­der, about 15 min­utes. Drain on kitchen pa­per and set aside.

Re­move the birds from the oven and leave to rest for 10 min­utes. While the birds are rest­ing, check the tem­per­a­ture of your veg­eta­bles and sauce and re­heat as needed. Cut the cele­riac into wedges.

To serve, re­move the par­tridge breasts from the bone and care­fully re­move the skin. Place some kale in the cen­tre of each plate to­gether with two ba­tons of sal­sify, plus two car­rots and two wedges each of pur­ple and golden beet­root, if us­ing, and two wedges of cele­riac. Ar­range the par­tridge breasts on top and fin­ish with about two dessert spoon­fuls of the truf­fled Madeira sauce.

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