Tasting notes

Two friends have spent 20 years creating wonderful wedding banquets

What makes a wedding-worthy spread?

THE FIRST WEDDING Margot Henderson did the catering for was her own. It was 1993, and held in a big tent in the Wiltshire garden belonging to the parents of her now-husband, fellow chef Fergus Henderson. ‘We did cassoulet for 300 people, which was quite... exciting,’ she recalls with a laugh.

It’s been 20 years since friends Margot and Melanie Arnold first started hosting parties, so it’s understandable that their first ‘official’ events are a bit of a blur. ‘I remember lots of running around, and sleepless nights thinking, have we forgotten this or that,’ Margot says.

Now Arnold & Henderson, who are also behind the Rochelle Canteens in London, have more staff and provide everything from fish stew in a barn to regional British cheeses sourced from wherever the bride and groom hail from. Keira Knightley’s countryside wedding in Provence? Catered by Arnold & Henderson, who served braised guinea fowl. ‘That was one of the most memorable weddings we’ve ever done. The guinea fowl were like supermodels – such long legs!’

The pair have just been asked to organise another bash in the south of France, but also often operate from the Institute of Contemporary Arts in its beautiful, high-ceilinged rooms overlooking the Mall – a bouquet’s toss from Buckingham Palace. Here, and in all locations, they have found that the simple touches are often the most effective. ‘Chicken pies might sound basic but work brilliantly for big weddings,’ says Margot. ‘Ultimately, we just want to get a plate of beautiful food to people.’ arnoldandhenderson.com

Top The Nash Room at London’s Institute of Contemporary Art – which can be hired as a wedding venue. Right Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson