As a child, I broke the rules to buy myself a factory-made mazarin cake in a plastic bag

market from the 1890s onwards. Later, it became a smaller neighbourhood fruit and veg market that predated the organic and local food movements; it simply sold vegetables in abundance from Denmark and more widely from Europe. The parents of one of my classmates had a stall there, among the serried ranks of neatly arranged produce. The place always had a special atmosphere, simultaneously tempting and a touch alarming, with stallholders crying their lungs out as they shouted their specials.

The food halls opened in 2011. The stalls are a mixture of seasonal produce from local farms, groceries, fresh fish and meat, fancy French cheeses and smoked fish, and cheeses from Bornholm, the Danish island in the Baltic Sea; but there are also street-food joints, bakeries with great cakes, wine bars and beer halls. My company, Hahnemanns Køkken, opened up a stall in Torvehallerne in late 2017. We sell my cookbooks as well as salads, bread, cakes and local produce from some of our favourite organic farmers. It’s like a modern corner shop, where you can buy a bit of everything, but in this incarnation the ‘everything’ is all home-made and organic. I have always wanted to be part of the food halls and am delighted to be there now, enjoying my latest food adventure. Copenhagen Food, by Trine Hahnemann, is published by Quadrille (£25). To order your copy for £20 call 0844-871 1514 or visit books.telegraph.co.uk