Tasting notes

How to make better bread

‘SHOW THE DOUGH WHO’S BOSS’ is the subtitle for Richard Bertinet’s new book, Crumb, and it seems a fitting mantra for the man who teaches a rather un-english method of kneading at his bread-making classes in Bath. Instead of prodding and pummelling, the Frenchman encourages air into his dough by scooping it up with a fullbody movement, swinging it out, and returning it to the board with a slap. Rhythmically rocking from front foot to back as he goes, the process ends with a ball of dough that’s firm and strong, and loaves that are never dense. It’s a practice that has earned him a huge following among chefs and food lovers for his courses and cookbooks – and that’s before you’ve tried one of the incredible croissants at The Bertinet Bakery.

Crumb builds on the techniques shared in his previous books (Dough came first, in 2005), with particular focus on the texture of bread – that open and airy, hole-pocked look of sourdough, the buttery fluff of brioche. A too-tight crumb that’s grey or too squishy is what he aims to eliminate. After all, he writes, ‘No one ever says, “I’d love to make a loaf that is really heavy and dense!”’ Bertinet’s step-by-step instructions are clearly explained for hand- and machine-kneading (the former is tipped first so that the characteristics of a dough that’s ‘bouncy and alive’ can be learnt). And then there are the recipes: muesli breakfast bread, leopard bread, brie in brioche, and all manner of delicious things on toast. You’ll want to eat every last crumb. Crumb (Kyle Books, £25) is published on 7 February. Order your copy for £19.99 at books.telegraph.co.uk, or call 0844-871 1514

Clockwise from top A sourdough loaf; almond and cherry slices; rustic baguettes