John Gregory-smith’s meze feast

A holiday on your table

Yearning for far-off places? Let John Gregory-smith take you there with his Middle Eastern-inspired feast

A few years ago I travelled all over Lebanon, along its glistening Mediterranean coastline and through the fields of Beqaa Valley, the winegrowing region that borders Syria. I drove across the Chouf Mountains, strewn with sleepy villages, and over to Qadisha Valley, a Unesco World Heritage site whose now-crumbling monasteries sheltered Christian monks during the Crusades. I found Lebanon’s food to be just as breathtaking as its scenery. Meze is a permanent fixture: a huge dining table groaning with small plates to pass around. And until I can get on the road again, my menu this week is a nostalgic one. I have picked three of my favourite dishes. There’s jawaneh: chicken wings marinated with lemon and loads of garlic to give them some bite. I like to finish mine off with za’atar, a traditional spice blend. With them, my speedy version of hummus topped with gorgeously golden, crispy fried lamb, and for balance, a refreshing watermelon salad, simply tossed with mint, olives and feta.

Photography: Steven Joyce. Food styling: Kitty Coles. Prop styling: Alexander Breeze