BACALAO (SPANISH SALT COD)

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 30 minutes, plus overnight brining

Serves 4 as part of a spread

Historically, salt cod was a trading commodity dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries, known back then as ‘stock fish’. In Spain and Portugal it still appears on most traditional menus.

I’ve eaten Spanish salt cod in many different ways, from coarse and chunky to smooth and silky, and even as little salty cod doughnuts. Classic Spanish recipes call for traditional dried salt cod, common in West Indian and African shops, which are cricket-bat-like things that can take up to a week to rehydrate. You can buy a fresher, vacuum-packed version which is less dry and salty and can be reconstituted in less that 24 hours.

I quite like salting my own cod, or any white fish come to that. Whenever I’m cooking fish I freeze the belly, tails and any trimmings to then put into sea salt for 24 hours. Alternatively, ask your fishmonger for white fish trimmings.

INGREDIENTS

– 400g cod or white fish trimmings such as tail or belly

– 100g sea salt

– 5 garlic cloves,

finely sliced – 500ml milk

– freshly ground white

pepper, to season

– 1 large baking potato (about 300-350g), peeled and cut into even-sized pieces – 50ml olive oil

– 100g curly parsley,

finely chopped

– 40g fresh white

breadcrumbs

– 2 tbsp rapeseed oil

METHOD

Scatter the salt all over the fish and place in a container in the fridge overnight.

The next day, rinse the fish well and place in a saucepan with the garlic. Pour in the milk to just cover the fish. Season with some white pepper then bring to the boil and simmer gently for 6-8 minutes. Remove the fish with a slotted spoon, reserving the milk in the pan. Set the fish aside on a plate.

Add the potatoes to the milk and simmer for 10-12 minutes or until soft. Remove the potatoes (reserving the milk again) and put them through a potato ricer or mash them finely in a large bowl.

Gradually add some of the warm milk to the mash, stirring it in along with the olive oil until you have a silky mash. You might not need all the milk. Flake in the fish and stir through.

Divide the mixture between small, shallow heatproof bowls. Mix together the parsley, breadcrumbs and rapeseed oil and scatter over the fish mixture. Place under the grill until golden then serve.