CHICKEN BIRYANI

Prep time: 30 minutes, plus soaking and cooling time Cook time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Serves 4-6

Believed to have been created by the Mughal queen Mumtaz Mahal for troops of soldiers, biryani deserves its royal associations. The meat curry should be on the bottom and the fluffy basmati cooked on top, infused with saffron. I occasionally make it with a simple dough lid, sealed round the edge of the dish, which helps to steam the rice beneath it.

I like to cook chicken on the bone for this; the flavour is better and the fat from the skin blends into the curry.

INGREDIENTS

– 12 medium or 6 large bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs – 100g ghee or butter,

plus 50g melted

– 1 tsp fenugreek

seeds

– a small piece of

cinnamon stick

– 1 tsp cumin seeds

– 1 tsp black mustard

seeds

– ½ tsp ground turmeric, or ½ tbsp freshly grated – a good pinch of curry

powder

– 2 black cardamom

pods (optional)

– 1 tsp ground cumin – seeds from 12 green

cardamom pods

– 4 large onions, thinly

sliced

– 6 garlic cloves, grated – 4 small green or red

chillies, finely chopped – 30g fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated

– 1 litre chicken stock

– ½ tbsp tomato purée

– 2 tbsp chopped

coriander leaves

– 500g basmati rice

– 1 tsp nigella seeds

– a good pinch of saffron strands, soaked in 2 tbsp hot milk

– 10 or so fresh or dried

curry leaves (optional)

METHOD

If you are using large chicken thighs, cut them in half through the bone with a heavy chopping knife or cleaver. Heat the 100g ghee or butter in a large, heavy-based frying pan. Season the chicken thighs and fry for a few minutes, turning them and giving them a little colour. Remove the chicken and put to one side.

Add the spices to the pan and fry for a couple of minutes on a low heat, stirring so they don’t burn, then add the onion, garlic, chilli and ginger. Continue cooking with a lid on for a few minutes to soften the onions.

Return the chicken to the pan then add the stock and tomato purée, bring to the boil and simmer for about 40 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. The sauce should be thick and just coating the pieces of chicken; if not, turn up the heat and boil it rapidly for a few minutes until it is. Stir in the coriander and leave to cool for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas mark 7.

Soak the rice in cold water for about 10 minutes, changing the water a couple of times until it remains clear, then drain. Bring to the boil enough salted water to cover the rice. Add the rice, stir well and bring back to the boil. Simmer for 6-7 minutes then drain and stir in the nigella seeds.

Put the chicken in an ovenproof dish or casserole with a lid, and spoon the rice over the meat. Spoon over the melted ghee or butter, saffron-infused milk and curry leaves, if using.

Put the lid on and place in the oven for 30 minutes, then serve immediately.