The open house for friends and neighbours

If there’s one thing I want to press home here, it’s this: don’t buy Champagne for the sake of it. There are tons of delicious sparkling wines around (see the ‘big bash on a budget’ section) so no one needs to be lured, by cut-price Christmas deals on labels you’ve never heard of, into buying an insipid and distinctly average drink. Like so many others, I do enjoy the ubiquitous Aldi Veuve Monsigny III Brut NV, France (12.5%, Aldi, £14.99) which is easy and open, but the Co-op’s Les Pionniers is a far classier and much more finessed option.

SUPER TO SERVE

Les Pionniers Brut Champagne NV, France (12%, Co-op, £22.75)

Wow. I have no idea how Piper Heidsieck (who make this for Co-op) manage to produce such a grown-up and elegant Champagne for so little money. It’s a pinot-dominated blend (51% pinot noir and 31% pinot meunier, with 18% chardonnay), sleek, with hints of wholemeal toast and fresh citrus. Excellent.

Les Andides Saumur Blanc 2022, Loire, France (12.5%, Waitrose, £10.99 down to £8.74 until 28 November)

I always hope this beautiful Loire chenin blanc will be on offer for party season. It is the consummate aperitif wine: invigoratingly fresh but with a bit of weight and hinterland, too. Think subtle notes of quince, pears and honey with a preserved citrus wrap.

The Society’s Rioja Crianza 2019, Spain (14%, The Wine Society, £8.50)

A classy red that will please a lot of people. It’s made by storied winemaker Cosme Palacio and tastes of mellow strawberries with spicy oak. An alternative? A juicy malbec from Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet – I adore the Gaia Organic Malbec 2021 (14%, Waitrose, £16.99 down to £11.99 until 28 November).

REAL Dry Dragon Sparkling Tea

(0.5%, Ocado, Waitrose, £9 for 75cl; Virgin Wines, £9.49)

Sparkling tea is a brilliant alternative to alcohol because it feels (and looks) just as celebratory as sparkling wine. It’s also nuanced, which makes it very sippable. This one is bright and citrussy, and is made using pan-fired Dragonwell tea which gives a nutty, roasted tang reminiscent of roasted chestnut skins (very festive).

GREAT TO TAKE

Taylor’s 10-Year-old Tawny Port NV, Portugal (20%, Morrisons, £25 down to £19; Waitrose, £24.49 down to £19.49, both until 1 January)

Aged tawny port has gorgeously mellow flavours of crème caramel and roasted almonds with bright hints of orange rind. This one is fantastic served chilled, particularly with hard cheese. Bring a bottle as a gift – if you’re lucky, it might come out of the fridge at the end of the evening.