Victoria Moore A welcome shot of Aussie sunshine

It is 236 years since Arthur Phillip, a British naval officer who became the first Governor of New South Wales, landed in Australia with the brief of founding a convict settlement there. With him on the voyage from the Cape of Good Hope came orange and lemon seeds and seedlings, as well as cuttings of vines that were planted in his Sydney garden. Like Phillip, who returned to England in 1792 needing treatment for kidney stones, those early vines did not exactly flourish in Sydney’s hot climate.

Happily, Australians have since done a very good job of finding the right places for the right vines. Today, the country has many adventurous plantings: from the marsanne for which Tahbilk is famous to the cornucopia of Italian varieties, such as nero d’avola and fiano, that have a keen following among growers.

But Australia’s top five grape varieties are still the classics: in ascending order, merlot, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and shiraz. It’s to those comforting and well-known grapes that I want to turn now, for a gentle shot of warmth as we drag ourselves through the dark days of winter. Also, frankly, because they’re excellent value, well crafted and satisfying to drink.

An old favourite and a comfort blanket of a wine is Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2021 (14.5%, Tesco, Asda, £11). Penfolds has history and prestige: it was founded in 1844 and makes one of Australia’s most expensive wines – Grange. But unlike some producers who seem able to make either very good high volume or very good high-end wines, it does an extremely good job at both. The shiraz-cabernet blend is an Aussie classic, the generous aromatics of the shiraz complementing the structure of the cabernet, and this wine is a good place to start.

After a straight shiraz? The Co-op has two, in different styles, both really excellent. Robert Oatley Semaphore Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2021 (14%, Co-op, £10.50) is matured in French oak, tastes of oak spice and plum tart, and while it doesn’t lack warmth it does have more restraint than I’d expect from the heat of Mclaren Vale, perhaps because it’s made by Larry Cherubino, whose wines are always graceful. In contrast, Jim Barry The Lodge Shiraz 2021, Clare Valley (14%, Co-op, £11.75) is inky, dark and sweetly intense, all about full-on black fruit, liquorice, blueberry jelly and brambles – a good one for drinkers who like unashamed richness.

If the blackcurrant and cassis flavours of cabernet sauvignon are more your thing, head – at least in your glass – to Margaret River in south-west Australia where the Indian and Southern Oceans converge. Vasse Felix Filius Cabernet Merlot 2020, Margaret River (14.5%, Majestic, £14.99 or £12.99 in a mixed six), is a sleek and juicy red that smells of elderberries and wild strawberries and has gentle tannins and a moreish appeal.

Feel like pushing the boat out? Try Mchenry Hohnen Hazel’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Margaret River, (14.5%, The General Wine Company, £39.99). This one has a lot of depth but needs to be decanted for an hour or two to allow it to unwind. Do that and you’ll get a long plume of perfume – all cassis, cedar and softened leather with a dusting of black olive tapenade. Open it for a roast leg of lamb and you’ll have a very special combination.

As we drag through winter, Australian reds are excellent value, well crafted and satisfying to drink