This way for the best of the west

With our comprehensive itinerary, you won’t miss any of the natural – and cultural – wonders that Western Canada has to offer, says Tim Jepson

Western Canada doesn’t disappoint. In Vancouver it has a city regularly lauded as one of the world’s most beautiful, and in the Canadian Rockies a medley of landscapes frequently praised as some of the most spectacular on Earth. All too often destinations don’t live up to this type of accolade. Here the superlatives barely do justice to the city or the scenery.

But there’s a problem: this is a large region, embracing a lot of landscape, a variety of ways to see it, and – in an area that is mostly roadless wilderness – an obvious limit to what you can accomplish in two weeks.

Western Canada includes the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta, though in practice most tour operators address only their more accessible southern margins and the most famous Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks – Banff, Jasper, Yoho and Kootenay.

These contiguous areas protect some of the most spectacular scenery but in July and August their handful of roads, limited accommodation and three key small towns (Banff, Jasper and Lake Louise) are busy.

In taking you beyond these parks, my itinerary aims to show you some of the less-visited – but no less aweinspiring – parts of the region, as well as introducing you to another of Canada’s great glories – its scenic rail journeys.

It also incorporates a third element – the sea – for British Columbia The beautiful Bow Lake, right; First Nation art – a totem pole – at Mount Robson, below has a coastline to match its majestic mountainous interior. Ferries ply the Inside Passage – British Columbia’s coastal labyrinth of islands and fjords – offering the same scenery for a fraction of the cost of a cruise.

Vancouver Island is Western Canada in miniature, a mixture of sublime mountain and coastal landscapes, ancient old-growth forest, and outdoor activities galore. Victoria, its charming, garden-filled capital, has a world-class museum, while Vancouver across the water makes a fitting finale to any itinerary.

Wherever you are, be sure to leave your car to indulge in some of the many outdoor activities available. Park trails are well kept and well signed – you won’t need detailed maps, but will need to be properly equipped. Parks Canada (pc.gc.ca) and town visitor centres, notably banfflakelouise.com, carry a wealth of information on hikes and other activities. Personal favourites include the stroll to admire the turquoise waters of Peyto Lake on the Icefields Parkway, beachcombing amid the wave-lashed driftwood on Long Beach near Tofino, and hiking through dense, silent forest for views of Stanley Glacier in Yoho National Park.

Warm and (generally) dry weather plus the seasonal nature of train and ferry services mean that the best time to visit is between midJune and mid-September. July and August are the busiest months.