No finer place for sure, Down­town

The Daily Telegraph - Travel - - BRITAIN - Sherelle Ja­cobs

A next-gen­er­a­tion Four Sea­sons with brave de­sign and views of One World Trade Cen­ter. The spa is an artis­tic marvel dusted with mother-of-pearl, but the steak restau­rant from Wolf­gang Puck doesn’t live up to the hype.

Lo­ca­tion 9/10

cu­bist bas re­lief on the wal­nut walls.

Fin­ishes are ec­cen­tric: a gi­ant bronze conch sits on a stone slab in one cor­ner, pil­lars are made of shag­gy­waved mar­ble, and black Saturn-es­que rings which hover from the ceil­ing in re­cep­tion for no ap­par­ent rea­son at all.

The move away from the clas­si­cal lux­u­ri­ance that has un­til now de­fined the brand is pal­pa­ble – in­stead of the usual ef­fu­sive flower dis­plays, bowls hold a sin­gle white flower each, clipped of their stems.

Ser­vice/fa­cil­i­ties 7/10

The door­men re­mem­ber your name, house­keep­ing go above and be­yond, and re­cep­tion staff greet you like old friends. But the ho­tel has fran­chised its restau­rant, and it shows: at break­fast, black tea came with­out milk. When I re­quested some, it was hot, giv­ing my drink the tex­ture of cap­puc­cino.

Fa­cil­i­ties in­clude a gym and spa with lap pool. The lat­ter is a vi­sion of gor­geous­ness, dec­o­rated with mar­ble mo­saics that are im­planted with mother of pearl, tree-trunk ta­bles, and Korean pa­per art.

The lack of pub­lic space for guests to en­joy the high-rise views is a glar­ing missed op­por­tu­nity; the bar and restau­rant are on the ground floor.

Rooms 8/10

Rest­ful vi­sions in taupe with arm­chairs made from the sup­plest of leathers and rough-tex­tured fea­ture walls. The iPads and au­to­mated cur­tains will ap­peal to technophiles. Lamps with stems bent into ec­cen­tric an­gles keep things in­ter­est­ing.

Mar­ble-mo­saic bath­rooms have rain show­ers and bath­tubs with a view of the One World Trade Cen­ter. Lorenzo Vil­loresi toi­letries, which smell of or­ange blos­som and Tus­can herbs, are the kind you’ll want to take home.

Food and drink 6/10

The ho­tel hosts the city’s first Cut steak­house by Wolf­gang Puck, who has just got his star on the Hol­ly­wood Walk of Fame. It has some­thing of a night­club feel about it, hav­ing been doused in black paint.

Un­for­tu­nately, a mag­nif­i­cent char, both sweet and bit­ter, couldn’t re­deem my medi­um­rare steak. In­stead of a glow­ing pink in­te­rior – the same shade as a baby’s flushed cheeks – I found a mourn­fully pale thread of raw meat chok­ing within a vast, brown slab; the flavour of cow had shriv­elled away, leav­ing only a sense of thick pro­tein and in­sur­mount­able size.

Break­fast is bet­ter. Try the eggs Bene­dict, with towel-thick coun­try ham, zingy maple hol­landaise and jalapeño toasted bread. The 9/11 Memo­rial, above, is a short stroll from the Four Sea­sons Down­town; the lobby, left and one of the rooms, far left

Value for money 7/10

Dou­ble rooms from $499 (£404) in low sea­son; and from $599 in high. Break­fast not in­cluded; bud­get around $50 per per­son. Free Wi-Fi.

Ac­cess for guests with dis­abil­i­ties?

All pub­lic spa­ces are wheelchair-ac­ces­si­ble. There are 10 adapted rooms.

Fam­ily-friendly?

Fif­teen in­ter­con­nect­ing rooms.

The de­tails

27 Bar­clay St, New York, NY 10007 (001 (646) 880 1999; foursea­sons. com/newyork­down­town). For more ho­tels in New York, see: tele­graph.co.uk/ tt-newyork ho­tels

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