Fire, fishy feasts and pagan thrills

The aromas of Glühwein and Bratwurst are wafting across ersatz German Christmas markets in cities around Britain, while Santa’s grottos are busy peddling presents to tots. But despite all the fake snow and commercial excess, there are still places where you can encounter Yuletide events with roots in more ancient folklore.

Given the festival’s pre-Christian origins in midwinter feasts, many of these traditions have less to do with baby Jesus and Saint Nick, and more with elemental pagan customs and characters. Expect fire, fishy feasts, football and some deliciously dark thrills. In the Middle Ages, until the custom was banned by King Henry VIII and again by Elizabeth I, ecclesiastical authority was transferred for three weeks each December to a young lad – the Nicholas Bishop or Boy Bishop – who temporarily wielded the power and influence of his adult counterpart, raising hefty sums through door-todoor singing and collections.

Historically conducted at Salisbury and Winchester Cathedrals, the custom has been revived at Hereford (stnicholascenter.org/pages/boyyouth-bishops), where you can join the ceremony during choral evensong at the cathedral on the Sunday nearest to St Nicholas’ Day, to cheer the chorister who dons the mitre till Holy Innocents’ Day (Dec 28).

Stay at: Castle House Hotel (telegraph.co.uk/tt-castlehousehereford)

Montol Penzance, Cornwall

December is marked by a host of traditional celebrations throughout Britain, from Burning the Clocks in Brighton to mass carolling and mummers’ plays, says Paul Bloomfield

Taking a dip in the Serpentine, above; Burning the Clocks in Brighton, top