‘Lazy, sunny days and dancing under the stars’

Sarah Haselwood

swapped the school run for pure escapism on the Croatian island of Hvar

Thanks to the World Cup, Croatia has received global attention. But for me, the lure of the Croatian island of Hvar was the need to escape my children for a few days. The complicated paradox of savouring freedom while missing my family seemed amplified in this unforgettable place.

On the speedboat ride from Split, the feeling among me and my friends was of childlike bewilderment, along with

– I admit – a trace of smugness that we were dodging the school run back home. This decadence was all part of the adventure, in a world filled with the scents of lavender and sun-kissed olive groves.

Hvar is both beautiful and welcoming, with no edge of hostility. The harbour boasts a fleet of superyachts, yet the crowds are from a comforting assortment of backgrounds, nationalities and age groups. A medieval castle sits majestically above the harbour and, below, a piazza creates an Italian feel, its market stalls and restaurants imbued with historical elegance.

For me, a life temporarily devoid of children (and thus routine) was largely about naps, reading and taking dips in the cool water. If laziness hadn’t been so high

on my agenda, perhaps I’d have sampled the iridescent depths with a mask and snorkel. Perhaps…

Afternoons were spent in the Hula Hula Hvar bar or just lying on the beach, the sea lapping as cocktails were stirred. The crowd was a combination of casual and suave, and a mood of heady escapism prevailed. Hedonistic sprays of champagne jetted from the VIP area into the eager crowds as the atmosphere screamed exuberance. I was neither “Mummy” nor in any way labelled, no longer petrified, mortified or

Hvar is beautiful and welcoming, with no edge of hostility

horrified to be a mature partygoer. It simply didn’t matter. Judgment wasn’t part of the equation.

After dark we braved the boat journey to the nearby island of Stipanska to dance under the stars at Carpe Diem, recently voted one of the best beach clubs in the world. Admittedly, I struggled with the music, having been accustomed to the softer rhythms of the soundtrack of The Greatest Showman, thanks to my children. However, this was an experience worth embracing. Where else could I throw caution to the wind against a beautiful ocean backdrop with powder-soft particles of sand beneath my feet?

I confess to a flicker of guilt for not exploring Hvar’s historic monuments, but with two children under five and only three days at my disposal, I reverted to my former self, who relished lazy days, pure escapism and occasional partygoing. Whatever your status or reason for going there, Hvar will give you something to remember. I just need to know when

I’ll be going back.