The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
HOW TO DO IT
There are two ways to travel – on the public rail network, whose 12,000 trains carry 23 million passengers a day. The first five of the journeys selected here fall into this category. For a plusher experience, there are a number of private trains offering luxury tours (the second five selected here).
For the public trains, Indian Railways (indianrailways. gov.in) offers eight classes of travel, from the most basic (often crowded, unreserved carriages, challenging to Westerners) to First Class Air-Conditioned (potentially isolating you from the sociability that’s the essence of Indian train journeys).
The best bet, preferred by middle-class Indians, is
Second Class AC (2AC). The berths, reserved in advance, are grouped in fours, with leatherettecovered seats. For overnight journeys (saving on hotel bills) they convert into curtained-off bunk beds; sheets and pillows are provided free. Take your own toilet paper and consider a padlock to secure luggage.
Tickets are astonishingly cheap by western standards. The 860-mile (1,384km) journey from Delhi to Mumbai, for instance, costs about £23 in 2AC; just £4 in Second Class Unreserved. Tickets go on sale 120 days in advance and can sell out quickly, so don’t rely on buying them on the day of travel at often busy station counters. Tourist quotas can help secure last-minute tickets and major stations (including New Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Calcutta) have tourist bureaus. Many hotels know local ticket “fixers”, but it’s best to book before you travel to India. The invaluable seat61. com website offers detailed practical advice about options, including booking online. SD Enterprises (020 8903 3411; indiarail.co.uk) has expert knowledge of Indian railway travel.
LUXURY TRAINS 7 PALACE ON WHEELS
The Palace on Wheels, launched in 1982, was the pioneer of luxury Indian rail tours and, repeatedly refurbished over the years, it is still hugely popular. Six nights on board are at the heart of Great Rail Journeys’ 15-day tour, which takes in the
Golden Triangle (Delhi, Jaipur and Agra for the Taj Mahal), Ranthambore National Park, Udaipur, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. It also features three nights in Shimla, with a journey on the Toy Train. Costs from £4,995 per person from Great Rail Journeys (01904 521978; greatrail.com).
8 DECCAN ODYSSEY
On a seven-night round-trip from Mumbai, the luxury Deccan Odyssey explores Gujarat, India’s most western state and as fascinating as neighbouring Rajasthan. It includes visits Palitana, with its 863 Jain temples, Sasan Gir National Park, home of the Asiatic lion, the Sun Temple at Modhera and the haunting desert landscape of the Little Rann of Kutch with its birds and wild asses.
Hidden Treasures of Gujarat, an 11-day/nine-night Deccan Odyssey tour from Cox & Kings (020 3642 0861; coxandkings.co.uk), costs from £3,475 per person.
9 MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESS (1)
The eight-day Indian Panorama tour on the luxury Maharajas’ Express ventures off the beaten track to take in the holy Ganges city of Varanasi and Lucknow, with its great Islamic monuments and Mutiny associations. The tour visits Gwalior, dominated by its towering fort, and Khajuraho, famed for its erotic temples.
The Indian Panorama tour from Inspiring Travel Company (020 3588 6130; inspiringtravelcompany.co.uk) costs from £5,799 per person.
10 MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESS (2)
Another of the Maharajas’ Express offerings is the nine-night Heritage of India Rail Journey includes seven nights on the train, plus one each in Delhi and Mumbai. A big draw is the superb rock-cut caves at Ajanta in the state of Maharashtra and time in Bikaner. Heritage of India
Rail Journey from Kuoni (0800 044 8503; kuoni.co.uk) costs from £7,291 per person.