The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel

BOB BUTLER, 62, RETIRED NAVAL OFFICER, TAMPA

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Toni, an adult male, is hanging upside down, scratching his head with both hands. This is a way of grooming himself, to remove algae – too much and he can’t move. He is thought to be eight to 10 years old – sloths live up to 25 years. That’s a lot of downtime.

After wiling away a few hours watching the sloths’ slow lumbering, we make our way to the hotel’s spa for one of their signature treatments. Being English, though, I hurry down, to ensure that I am there in plenty of time. Mike would wag one of his long claws disapprovi­ngly at me. If he could be bothered.

Our Swedish massage, in a private open-air pavilion, starts – blindfolde­d – with a foot ritual. Without sight, I can focus on how tense my body feels. Tension that, over the next 80 minutes, is gradually lessened, in the expert hands of our masseuses, Lisbeth and Margarita. I must say, it helps that the customary relaxation-CD underscore is supplement­ed by the soundtrack of the rainforest – birds, cicadas. It’s like natural jazz.

Afterwards, as we relax in our plunge pool, I can see why Costa Rica often features as one of the happiest countries in the world. And I think back to something Edson said this morning: “Mike’s taking a siesta now.” Good plan.

Pura vida.

British Airways flies direct from Gatwick to San Jose, Costa Rica, twice a week in the summer season and three times a week during the winter, from £617 (britishair­ways. com). Double rooms at Nayara Springs (nayaraspri­ngs.com) cost from about £375 a night. For more informatio­n on Costa Rica, go to visitcosta­rica.com/en

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