DOWN IN THE DELTA

being poached to the edge of extinction. Worth more than their weight in gold, they’re illogically believed to heal everything from cancer to impotence in traditional Asian medicine, and have become a hideous status symbol for the rich.

At 6am on the day of the track, I found myself wrapped in blankets in the back of a Land Cruiser warding off the morning chill as Michael drove us to a boma, an empty, sturdy enclosure made of logs. He explained that this was the rhinos’ temporary home when they first arrived in Moremi, relocated to relative safety here from the more perilous regions of South Africa where, shockingly, up to three rhinos a day were being killed.

Rhino Conservation Botswana (rhinoconservationbotswana.com), an NGO, began its ambitious relocation project in 2002. Abercrombie &

Kent Philanthropy, which employs