DOG-SLEDDING

Expensive – an hour is €63 (£55) for an adult, €45

fact an ancient saloir – the preelectricity incarnation of a fridge, which would have been filled with salt to preserve food.

In the tiny village of Montigny-lèsArsures, I visited Domaine André et Mireille Tissot, where Bénédicte and Stéphane (the next generation) make a Jura speciality: vin jaune, wine from the local white grape, savagnin, aged in a barrel under a covering of naturally occurring yeast known here as a voile, or veil. It’s a similar process to sherry and, in fact, the wines have a sherry tang to them, as well as a delicious nuttiness. Stéphane’s winery isn’t set up for tourism, but he has a dedicated shop in Arbois, the picturesque village where Louis Pasteur experimented with pasteurisation and fermentation at his riverside house (now a museum) and in his vineyards nearby.

We passed through

Arbois several times, partly because of Aux Délices du Palais, a superb butcher and deli, and partly because I wanted to visit Les Jardins de St Vincent, a muchrecommended wine shop that remained stubbornly shut no matter what day or time I visited.

On our last day, even I wanted to ski, to stop for a crêpe at Le Flocon, a great café on the slopes, and to take advantage of the hotel spa one last time. Technically, children aren’t