Spellbound on a journey to the edge of the world

A new road will open up one of Iceland’s most remote regions. Katja Gaskell is one of the first to explore the Westfjords Way

‘You are lucky today,” grinned Jon, the very jolly captain. “This is the last boat of the season”. It’s only August but already the dark fjord waters look restless. We’re standing in the wood-panelled office of West Tours on the docks at Isafjordur, a pocket-sized town in Iceland’s Westfjords region. It sits on a small sandspit flanked by steep mountains on three sides and the open waters of Isafjardardjup on the fourth. It was into these waters that we were due to set sail.

Isafjordur marked the almost halfway point on our journey around the Westfjords, a large, mountainous peninsula whose fretted coastline stretches out into the icy waters of the Denmark Strait. It’s the oldest corner of Iceland, formed some 16 million years ago, moulded and shaped by glaciers, freezing rain and snow, fierce winds and corrosive ocean waves. The landscape is among the most dramatic in Iceland – and also among the most isolated. The first road linking Isafjordur to the capital Reykjavik was only completed in 1959 and heavy snowfall between November and May means that for large parts of the year the region is cut off.

This is all set to change, however, with the arrival of the Vestfjardaleidin (Vest-fyar-tha-lay-thin), the Westfjords Way, Iceland’s newest driving route. This 590-mile road is being launched next month to coincide with the opening of the Dyrafjardargong tunnel, which will link the northern and southern parts of the Westfjords and allow the region – and driving route – to be accessible for nine months of the year.

A new mountain road will be completed in 2023, opening the region up year-round. Given that today only seven per cent of visitors to the country make it to the Westfjords, it’s hoped that the Westfjords Way will attract visitors looking to experience Iceland’s road less travelled.

I was visiting Iceland with two girlfriends. We had all previously explored the well-trodden path of the Golden Circle and were keen to venture somewhere different. To help us, we worked with Hidden Iceland, a local company that offers small, personalised journeys. It is also one of the only companies to offer guided tours of the Westfjords. Our guide was Ryan, one of the co-founders.

“The Westfjords is the place you come to on your second or third trip to Iceland,” explained Ryan. “This is an area that you won’t really see on Instagram or read about in a blog. It is the definition of off the beaten path.”

The drive from Reykjavik to Gilsfjordur, the narrow fjord that separates the Westfjords from the mainland,

Getting there

A four-day trip in the Westfjords with Hidden Iceland (hiddeniceland.is) starts from 249,990 ISK (£1,372) per person. Private tours can be organised in May and September, with self-drive options also available. Various airlines fly to Reykjavik, including British Airways (around 3h).

Where to stay

Heydalur Guest House (heydalur.is). Simple and homely, with meals served in a converted barn; doubles from 18,500 ISK (£104). Kirkjubol Guest House (kirkjubol.is). Cosy B&B sandwiched between mountains and fjords; doubles from 15,800 ISK (£90).

Hotel West (hotelwest.is). Modern hotel with bedroom views over the fjord and a good restaurant; doubles from 14,600 ISK (£82).

When to go

Summer to see the midnight sun and migrating bird colonies; late August- October for the Northern Lights.

More information westfjords.is