Dream stays in a world of narrowboats, islets, swans and kingfishers

A tepee, a pub, a boutique hotel – or the cottage made famous by the Profumo scandal? Immerse yourself in the history and atmosphere of the Thames in one of these riverside boltholes, says Sarah Turner This is the Thames of ‘The Wind in the Willows’, flow

More than 350 years ago, the stones used to build the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral were loaded in the Cotswolds before travelling down the Thames. Start the same journey today and your most constant companions will be swans and reeds. Ordnance Survey puts the start of the Thames at Trewsbury Mead. Depending on rainfall, a stream will appear between the Gloucestershire villages of Kemble and Ewen. From here, the river widens and meanders through several counties, flowing under bridges and softened by a series of locks. This is the Thames of The Wind in the Willows, with narrowboats and kingfishers, villages and small islands.

At Teddington, the Thames becomes muscular and tidal. In London, a series of bridges spans its ever-widening girth before it stretches out on either side of Essex and Kent and finally – after 215 miles – joins the sea.

The Thames is constantly changing, but never more than in the past 40 years as it has become a key tourist experience. Environmental changes have meant that as the water has become cleaner, swimming has become a pleasure. Anglers stand more chance of catching fish. Campsites have been joined by glamping options.

In 1996, the Thames Path was completed. At 184 miles, it is the longest riverside walk in Europe. Walking holidays have sprung up alongside, including ones where your luggage is transported for you; itineraries are as onerous or as leisurely as you desire.

And above all, there are the Thames hotels. You can stay in a charming riverside pub or a boutique hotel that has three Michelin stars; a tepee, a members’ club or a building commissioned by King Charles II. No two properties will be the same, but they all carry the Thames and its history with them.

Double rooms from £85, including breakfast. Camping from £20 per night, per pitch (01285 770259; thamesheadinn.co.uk)