Is this the beginning of a Florentine renaissance?

days and Saturdays. At the Serre Torrigiani (0039 328 9666268), a huge glasshouse near Porta Romana, aperitivi are served in a glorious garden from 6pm, and you can stay on for spare ribs or hamburgers cooked over an open grill. There’s regular live music too.

Many visitors in recent months have opted for the comparative safety (and bargain-basement prices) of a self-catering apartment, but hotels with gardens or rooms with independent entrances provide reassuring alternatives. Safety measures required by law include regular temperature checks and hand sanitising and the mandatory use of masks inside by both staff and guests.

Rooms are deep-cleaned and sanitised between guests, and social distancing must be observed in bars and restaurants. The ubiquitous breakfast buffet and its accompanying piledhigh plates is out; you either point at what you want, or there will be table service.

Up in airy Fiesole, the five-star Belmond Villa San Michele (belmond. com) has 24 rooms with independent entrances and private terraces accessed through the lovely gardens. At the ridiculously romantic La Loggia restaurant, Campanian chef Alessandro Cozzolino whips up the likes of lamb loin from the Maremma and his take on the classic melanzane alla Parmigiana. And if you don’t fancy sharing space with your fellow guests first thing in the morning, you can order a picnic breakfast in the garden.

Hip, stylish Riva Lofts (rivalofts. com) lies on the south bank of the Arno, some way west of the city centre, and has nine rooms with independent entrances and a peaceful garden with lappool. Back in the Oltrarno, retro-chic Ad Astra (adastraflorence.com) enjoys a privileged setting in a huge, privately-owned garden and has two suites housed in a cute little cottage annexe. The large terrace is a perfect spot for breakfast.