Essentials

Stay

Plaza 18 (doubles from £141), La Casa del Califa (doubles from £80), Las Palmeras del Califa (doubles from £115) and Califa Casas (two-bedroom house from £70), can all be booked at califavejer.com

La Fonda Antigua (chicsleepinvejer.com), doubles from £70

Casa Shelly (casashelly. com), doubles from £70

Hotel V (hotelv-vejer. com), doubles from £194

Just outside town, the luxurious adults-only cortijo Casa La Siesta has doubles from £291 (casalasiesta.com)

Eat and drink

Casa Varo is known for its tuna dishes and divine orange-avocado salad (casavaro.com)

Corredera 55 is all about seasonal deliciousness and is great for vegetarians/ vegans (facebook.com/ corredera55)

Head to La Judería for original tapas, Cadiz wines and knockout views (lajuderiadevejer.com)

Smartened-up Mercado Central de Abastos is best for globe-trotting bites

Order simmering tagines at El Jardín del Califa (califavejer.com), Lebanese creations at Fez (due late April 2021)

Contemporary-spin tapas are on the menu at 1930s-inspired Califa

Tapas (califavejer.com)

Try Vejer’s speciality, lomo en manteca, in a bocadillo at Venta Pinto (ventapinto.com) in La Barca de Vejer

La Casa del Vino, on the Plaza de España, specialises in exclusively gaditano wines

Shop

Just off the main square, Ecléctica Deco stocks Moisés Peña’s lively Vejer prints along with Portuguese pottery, local-landscape watercolours and other tempting homewares (eclecticadeco.es).

Zahir, right next door, has a curated collection of Scandinavian fashion and homeware, locally crafted dresses and pieces sourced from Morocco (zahirstore. com).

A few streets away, Juani Marchán has been working traditional basketry magic since the mid-1980s (cesteriatradicional.com)

Tregulland Barn and Cottage (01566

770880; tregulland andco.co.uk) offers discounts of up to 50

per cent for bookings between April 12 and June 21 2021. Groups of smaller size can choose between the barn or cottage for their stay, and have exclusive use of the property/pool. From June 21

2021, low-season weekend prices start at

£4,110 and midweek low season breaks cost from £3,425.

In normal circumstances,

the carn and cottage can sleep a group of up to

22 people.