The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
‘Amsterdam was becoming like Disney – now it’s been reclaimed’
The Netherlands reopens to vaccinated Britons from Wednesday – and its capital is blissfully uncrowded, says Rodney Bolt
AYou can dawdle along the canals without being mown down by cyclists
msterdam is shedding corona restrictions like a burlesque dancer drops layers of clothing, retaining just a little something here and there to preserve decorum.
From September 22, Britons visiting the Netherlands will no longer need to quarantine on arrival, while from September 25 the country’s bars and restaurants can operate at full capacity, theatres and cinemas can properly re-open and clubbers can dance till midnight – but all with the proviso that you have proof of vaccination or a negative Covid test not more than 24 hours old.
A life-as-normal atmosphere has been returning to the Dutch capital for some weeks. Masks came off everywhere except public transport at the beginning of the summer and Amsterdammers have long since pretty much ignored the social-distancing rule, which is now officially dropped nationwide. And of course, the historic city of languid canals, graceful buildings and curious little shopping streets remains unchanged. The houses along the canals seem to be giving gable-shaped shrugs and staring placidly on: they’ve seen it all over the centuries – this latest plague will pass as so much else has.
The biggest difference of this new phase is that Amsterdam is relatively empty – and that is a delight. You can dawdle along the canals without being mown down by cyclists, or visit galleries in the hip Jordaan district and appreciate the charm of its alleys rather than having to treat them as obstacle courses full of bicycles and stray pedestrians.
Visiting the quirky concept and designer stores of renowned shopping district Negen Straatjes (“Nine Little Streets”) doesn’t involve dodging and jostling as you go. A wander through the Albert Cuyp street market is a pleasant experience once again, and you can generally find a seat in the restaurants and cafés of the De Pijp dining quarter.
And the museums! They are currently still admitting only one visitor per 53sqft, which means that on visits to the usually super-crowded Rijksmuseum or Van Gogh Museum, you can now enjoy the art in relative tranquillity.
Many Covid-era innovations have added to Amsterdam’s allure. When only al-fresco dining and socialising was allowed, cafés and restaurants were permitted to expand their terraces and many did so inventively, using odd nooks that added a little greenery and shelter. This has changed the atmosphere of a walk down the street, making an already convivial city seem even more welcoming. The atmosphere remains – and I suspect the extended terraces will never completely retract.
There are a few blank storefronts of course – like missing teeth in a familiar smile – but most shops, museums and eateries seem to have weathered the pandemic and a few new ones have even appeared. There is the Nxt Museum of new-media art, while the pulsating “blow that Covid right out of your mind” Night Kitchen Amsterdam (0031 6 2533 0624; nightkitchenamsterdam.com) in Jan Pieter Heijestraat brings a touch of Tel Aviv nightlife and cuisine to town, with shared dishes from €44 (£37.50) per person.
The city centre, especially around the red-light district, is perhaps busier than the rest of town, but at nowhere near pre-Covid levels. When I first came to Amsterdam some decades ago, I would frequently hear visitors enthusing about the city, saying they would love to stay forever (many, like me, did). Shortly before the first Covid lockdown, however, I overheard an embattled tourist on a crushingly busy street come out with: “Such a beautiful city but so hectic. I’d hate to have to live here.” Amsterdam was indeed becoming unliveable – a Disneyfied version of itself. Now it feels as if Amsterdammers have reclaimed their city. The “brown cafés” (traditional pubs), the lunchtime sandwich shops and the neighbourhood markets feel authentically local again – which raises the question of how welcome visitors will now be.
When the first lockdown all but depopulated Amsterdam’s streets, locals marvelled at the quiet and beauty of the city, prompting calls for the previous “party tourism” never to be repeated. City mayor Femke Halsema spearheaded proposals to move the red-light district out of town, prohibit dope-selling “coffeeshops” to non-residents, cut down on excessive visitor numbers and actively discourage drunken, rowdy tourists in favour of “the right sort” of visitor (ie, genteel and museum-going). Those cogs are still turning, but a deal of pragmatism has set in, which, coupled with Amsterdammers’ seemingly innate sociability, spells a welcome to new visitors (well, those of the right sort, certainly). Now is the time to come – while the place remains blissfully uncrowded.
Visit telegraph.co.uk/tt-amsterdam for our expert guide to the city, including the best places to stay. See Travel collective, page 22.
Overseas travel is currently subject to restrictions. See page 5