You will never see so much, so easily

A floating hotel on a city break? Yes, that’s the essence of a river cruise – and it’s why they deliver such rewards, says Benjamin Parker

When holidays on the water returned in summer 2020, it was river cruising in Europe that gently led the way – vessels comfortingly hugging the banks, elegantly weaving down the continent’s waterways as its great cities and sights unfurled ahead.

In many ways, the river cruise has been pandemic-proof. Although measures to halt infections have been introduced, they’re not very different to what you’d find on land. And while some ocean-going ships have installed medical centres with mass testing facilities on board, river boats have no need for them. Suspected cases of coronavirus can be dealt with swiftly and simply, taking a passenger off the ship to be treated on land (and the cruise experience is cosseting: lines differ but you won’t be abandoned on the towpath).

It was with all this in mind that I embarked upon my inaugural river cruise earlier this year. Accustomed to hulking great ocean liners, it was the speed which first struck me. You’re travelling, yes, but you’re getting nowhere fast.

But this, I learnt, is the wonderfully soothing foundation of a holiday on the river. Though ocean-going vessels will span far greater distances, they can leave you wanting for a deeper interaction with your ports of call.

Travelling by river means you can sail right to the heart of incredible coast-less destinations. An approach by sea can be fantastic, of course – but waking up, or falling asleep, with the Hungarian parliament building, brilliantly lit, glistening through your window, is like nothing else (see our Danube story on page 12).

Nestled in your berth, you’re suddenly in a floating hotel on a city break. The more compact nature of river ships mean hordes don’t descend on a town at once – a common criticism levelled at the cruise industry – so there is an opportunity to explore without crowds, finding a new favourite bar, an unexpected souvenir, or a dish you’ll try (and likely fail) to replicate at home – all within footsteps of your ship.

This extends beyond the ports of call. One of the most delightful elements is being able to see a single country, revealed bit by tantalising bit as you forge onwards.

Landscapes, architecture and wildlife vary dramatically between regions, and you can witness that change from the comfort (and safety) of your stateroom. But I’m not just romanticising the humble cruise, as is my wont. The industry is seeing a revival on the rivers.

Alex Loizou, director of sales and marketing for Mundy Cruising, told me that these cruises have been one of travel’s “huge success stories”, with demand in Europe expected to rocket in 2022.

James Cole, founder and managing director of Panache Cruises, also expects a “bumper” 2022, with “exceptional” deals to be found right now. The lesson here might be to book sooner rather than later.

If the past 18 months have been a period of crashing waves, I can think of no better tonic than something far less choppy – like a river.

‘See a single country, revealed bit by tantalising bit’: a Uniworld cruise in Budapest