The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
HISTORIC STAYS IN TUSCANY AND UMBRIA
Tuscany
This 750-acre farm estate incorporating an 18th-century hamlet is set in unspoilt countryside east of Volterra. Rooms in the patrician villa have fourposters and frescoes; cottages are good for families. Fresh veg, fruit, honey and grain from the biodynamic garden supply the two restaurants; choose between the gourmet menu at Villa Pignano (think rabbit ravioli with ceps and langoustine) and wood-fired pizza, pasta and grills at Al Fresco. There’s also a spectacular infinity pool carved out of an old limestone quarry. Villa doubles from £274 (00 39 0588 35032; pignano.com). For a full review and to book, see telegraph.co.uk/ tt-borgopignano
TORRE DI MORAVOLA
Umbria
Expect a white-knuckle approach up a steep, twisting track to this 12th-century watchtower dominating the wooded Umbrian hills. The architectdesigner owners have sensitively transformed the space inside and out into a sleek, minimalist, seven-suite retreat. At the top of the property is an infinity pool with magnificent views; below is the spa offering Auyervedic massages and yoga sessions. Slow food-inspired meals using pro
duce from the organic garden are available on request.
Doubles from £319 (00 39 0759 460965; moravola.com). For a full review and to book, see telegraph.co.uk/ tt-torredimoravola
CASTELLO DI VICARELLO
Tuscany
Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi-Berti first stumbled across the crumbling, 12thcentury Castello di Vicarello in the 1970s, opening it to guests in 2003.
Now run by their sons, it is a unique nine-suite retreat set in scented gardens in the western Maremma, filled with an eclectic collection of beautiful things, much gathered from world travels.. The wild beaches of Alberese are not far away but on-site temptations include two pools, massages, endless corners for quiet reading, wonderful organic food and the fine estate wines. Doubles from £497 (0564 990718; castellodivicarello.com). For a full review and to book, see telegraph.co.uk/ tt-castellodivicarello
Tuscany
This 370-acre farm estate in the Tuscan Maremma is surrounded by olive trees and hills covered with scented Mediterranean macchia. The 19th-century borgo – its solid villa-farmhouse, chapel and outbuildings – encloses a grassy piazzale; the villa is filled with antiques and travel souvenirs while the apartments in the gamekeeper’s cottage are mod-rustic with terracotta floors and wooden beams. There’s riding on site, a pool, a herd of friendly donkeys and a restaurant serving seasonal dishes. Doubles from £200 (00 39 3332
985405; pescaiaresort.com). For a full review and to book, see telegraph.co.uk/ tt-lapescai
CASTELLO DI PETROIA
Umbria
Sitting atop a hill between Perugia and Gubbio is this medieval castle on a 900acre estate, criss-crossed with walking and riding trails and home to herds of Chianina cattle, Friesian horses, bees and olive groves. Inside, dim lighting, exposed stone, vast fireplaces and heavy antiques feel baronial yet the atmosphere is informal and there’s a lighter touch in the bedrooms. Historical recipes such as ‘bigonza’ (a 16th-century pork dish) are showcased in the candlelit restaurant where the owner often joins guests for dinner.
Doubles from £104 (00 39 075 920287; petroia.it) . For a full review and to book, see telegraph.co.uk/ttcastellodipetroia
CASTELLO DI POTENTINO
Tuscany
Way off the beaten track, high on the slopes of Monte Amiata, lies this remote 11th-century citadel, home to exjournalist Charlotte Horton and her brother Alexander Greene. Charlotte set about revitalising the ruined castle in 2000, planting vines and olive trees and creating big, beautiful bedrooms filled with antiques, pictures and books. She now runs year-round courses and workshops (wine-making, writing, painting and yoga), but you can also just go for peace and quiet, great food and wine, and the informal house-party atmosphere.
Doubles from £155 (00 39 0564 950014; potentino.com). For a full review and to book, see telegraph.co. uk/tt-castellodipotentino
BORGO SAN FELICE
Tuscany
The original Tuscan “borgo” hotel (it opened in 1990) and a working wine estate, San Felice lies in the heart of the south-eastern Chianti Classico region immersed in vineyards. It’s a slick operation under Relais & Chateaux, with 60 rooms spread between the fine 17thcentury palazzo and its outbuildings; the look is mod-Tuscan luxe. There’s a spa in the former olive press, a cooking school, traditional Osteria and Michelin-starred restaurant offering the likes of amberjack ceviche with caviar and pigeon with hibiscus flowers.