The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
BASILICATA
Home to a honeycomb of rock-hewn churches, ancient cave dwellings – and amazing beaches
Wherever you are in Puglia, make time for at least a day trip to Matera
Basilicata (aptbasilicata.it) is the least-known of southern Italy’s regions, hemmed in to the east and west by Puglia and Campania, and by Calabria to the south.
One of Italy’s poorest areas, it has recently become better known, thanks to the emergence of Matera (materawelcome.it), one of Italy’s most alluring towns; a honeycomb of rock-cut churches and ancient cave dwellings – the sassi – that after decades of restoration are now a World Heritage Site.
The town is easily seen, with Bari airport close by, and is often paired with sights in nearby Puglia, but its rewards – art, culture, food and unique townscapes – make it worth a self-contained short break in its own right.
Beyond Matera, Basilicata’s most easily accessed reward is Maratea (marateawelcome.it), the focus of several chic, mountain-framed beach resorts on the region’s Tyrrhenian coastline. Fine little centres in its orbit include Acquafredda, D’Illicini, Macarro and Anginarra, all perfect for couples and families in search of small resorts outside the mainstream.
Across the region, the Ionian coast is low-key by comparison, but of appeal to archeology buffs for the partially excavated ruins of the Greek colonies of Metapontum – close to lovely beaches at Terzo Cavone – and Heraclea, once two of the most powerful cities in the ancient world.
You’ll find more historic sites in the towns of Melfi and Venosa – the 11thcentury Trinità abbey close to the latter is a must-see – but Basilicata’s real glories after Matera are its landscapes, notably the verdant, volcanic slopes of Monte Vulture (parcovulture. it/en), renowned for its wines (visit winetourism.com to book tastings at six Vulture wineries from £10 per person), and the majestic Monte Pollino National Park (parconazionalepollino. it; parks.it), one of Europe’s last great wilderness areas.
You can explore the park by car – though roads are few – and better still on foot or by bike, from bases such as Rotonda or Terranova di Pollino, but this is countryside for serious outdoor enthusiasts, with few marked trails, so it pays to book a local guide (try Giuseppe Cosenza at viaggiarenelpollino.it) or join a guided walking holiday (see below).
SHORT-BREAK MATERA
Numerous operators offer packages to Matera, but this is a short break you can easily organise yourself. British Airways (ba.com), Ryanair (ryanair.com) and easyJet (easyjet.com) fly to Bari (though some flights are seasonal), which is a 45-minute taxi transfer from Matera. One of the first of several hotels to be built into the old caves, the Sextantio (00 39 0835 332744; sextantio.it; double B&B from £169), is still a standout. There are plenty of alternatives, but be sure to stay in the old town itself.
ON THE BEACH
The beaches near Maratea are among southern Italy’s best coastal destinations, frequented by Italian families but still little-known to outsiders.
Long Travel (01694 722193; longtravel.co.uk) offers packages to the region, including seven nights B&B at the three-star Hotel Gabbiano, overlooking a pretty bay near Acquafredda, from £554 per person, including flights and car hire. Kirker Holidays (020 7593 1899; kirkerholidays.com) offers flight, car hire and accommodation packages at the more upmarket La Locanda delle Donne Monache or Santavenere hotels in and close to Maratea.
SEA AND MOUNTAINS
World Walks (01242 254353; worldwalks.com) has a six-night self-guided walking trip that takes in two of Basilicata’s key sights, starting in the wilds of the Monte Pollino National Park – and with a hike to the summit of Monte Pollino (7,438ft) – followed by trails to Maratea. The £668 cost per person includes B&B, luggage transfers each day, all notes and maps, but excludes flights.
HIKE, BIKE AND EAT
We Walk South Italy (00 39 347 009 5714; wewalksouthitaly.it) offers both imaginative tailor-made and set itinerary walking and biking trips, including a seven-night Pollino walk that incorporates wine and food tasting and an excursion to Matera from around £1,000 per person. There is also a three-day biking trip in the southern, Calabrian portion of the Pollino National Park from £395. Both prices include accommodation and most meals, but not flights.